<VV> Cast Iron Rings Break-In

[Mark Durham]

Byron, this should not be a problem. I used to do lots of air cooled
aircraft engines, and did it this way. I started them and ran them
above idle, at about 1200 to 1400 rpm, for about 5 minutes, then shut
down and let the engine cool off. I did this again, and at the end of
the second run, I set idle, mixture and in your case, timing. Then
shut it off and let it cool. On the third run, I gave it to a pilot
and he used enough power to get the aircraft off the ground and
cruised around at 2400 to 2600 rpm for an hour. During that hour, the
CHT would start high and after 15 to 20 minutes, would settle down to
normal. The last fifteen minutes or so the pilot would use full power.
Never had a engine problem or one that used oil.

The idea is to get the initial break in to happen with the engine
cool. Then let it finish on that third run (drive it, but don't hot
rod it). I know people say it takes sometimes thousands of miles to
seat in, but that is mainly the Chrome and Moly rings which are harder
materials. Once this initial seat takes, the engine should be good to
go. Also, use a good grade of 30 wt (or 10 w30, or 5 w30) DINO oil
with lots of ZDDP in it.

I never had one smoke, they have always cleaned out during the first
run and then that stopped.

Years ago I worked for a Ford garage and did engine overhauls. The
standard was to start the engine and let it warm up to temp, these
were water cooled, so 180-195 degrees termp, and after setting timing
and the carb, and making sure there were no water leaks, I took it for
a drive for about a half hour. Towards the end, I would do three or
four power runs from a stop to 45 mph using mayby half throttle, to
seat the rings. Never had a problem there, either.

So, as long as you are not too harsh on it, you should be good. Don't
baby it either, it takes power to push the rings against the cylinder
walls and get them to seat (rub off the high spots and rings match to
the cylinder walls). If you have smokling pbs after the first couple
of minutes, the oil is coming from somewhere and if it is the rings,
use some power to get the rings up against the cylinder wall so they
can seat.

I assume you staggered the ring gaps and had proper end gaps?

Mark Durham

On Wed, May 18, 2011 at 3:49 PM, Byron Comp <byron.comp at yahoo.com> wrote:
> Item One:
> I've had my 110 running a couple times now, but still up on jack stands. That should change tomorrow, if all goes well in finalizing the repair to the leaking sender unit. Bear in mind that along with the valve job and other "inside work" being done, there are also new valve covers, exhaust "logs", and all new exhaust system on this engine. Noting that, it is smoking very badly right now, especially on the pass. side; thus only running it for very brief periods in the narrow shop. When and for what should I be concerned when I'm able to get it out and actually drive it.
>
> Item Two:
> The rebuild included CI rings, same as were taken off. I'm not going to begin driving this car on a routine basis or for any longish trips anytime soon - it goes back to the body shop for the finish paint job next - so what do you suggest I do as for break-in routine? The body shop is about 30 miles from my work shop and I'll be driving it there for about the first "cruise", but w/o a windshield. It may be as much as a month before I get it back and be able to drive it again. Does any of this sound like a problem for "break-in"?
>
> Byron Comp
> '64 Monza Vert
> Gainesville, FL
>
>>Message: 1
>>Date: Wed, 18 May 2011 07:30:59 -0700 (PDT)
>>From: Michael Kovacs <kovacsmj at sbcglobal.net>
>>Subject: Re: <VV> Piston Rings
>>To: Harry Smith <harrysmith1957 at gmail.com>
>>Cc: VV <virtualvairs at corvair.org>
>>Message-ID: <304428.98038.qm at web82004.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
>>Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
>>
>>As long as everything every thing else is done properly, including the break in
>>phase, the cast rings engine should last for a long time. I never gave thought
>>to what type of rings were original equipment for Corvairs, but my '69 winter
>>beater has 175,000 miles on it and never overhauled. Still a strong running
>>engine with no oil burning problems.
>>
>>MIKE KOVACS
>>
>>
>>
>
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