<VV> Icewater Air Conditioner
Bill Hubbell
whubbell at verizon.net
Tue Jun 14 15:50:01 EDT 2011
Don't be mean. It's for fun!
Bill Hubbell
On Jun 14, 2011, at 1:59 PM, "Ron" <ronh at owt.com> wrote:
> With so little ice, it would have only a very short term cooling ability. You need something with at least 100 pounds of ice or maybe a freon compressor?
> RonH
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "William Hubbell" <whubbell at verizon.net>
> To: "Virtual Vairs" <virtualvairs at corvair.org>
> Sent: Monday, June 13, 2011 7:29 PM
> Subject: <VV> Icewater Air Conditioner
>
>
>> I had a bit of fun this weekend making an ice-water air conditioner.
>> Basically, this is an air conditioner that uses ice to provide cooling as
>> opposed to Freon, but yes, it really is an air conditioner, not a swamp
>> cooler. And yes, I did make it with Corvair Parts, mostly, so it does
>> belong on this list. Note: photos here:
>> http://entertainment.webshots.com/album/580337059eTHqGs
>>
>>
>>
>> Here is how I did it
>>
>>
>>
>> Parts List
>>
>> . Evaporator/Blower box from an Early Model Corvair
>>
>> . Tsunami 500 GPH Cartridge Bilge Pump, 12VDC ($17.96 at walmart:
>> http://www.walmart.com/ip/Tsunami-500-GPH-Cartridge-Bilge-Pump-12VDC/1107126
>> 8)
>>
>> . Igloo Island Breeze 28 quart Personal Cooler ($15.88 at Walmart:
>> http://www.walmart.com/ip/Igloo-Island-Breeze-28-Quart-Personal-Cooler/16437
>> 966)
>>
>> . 12 gauge wire (Red and Black)
>>
>> . (2) 10-amp cigarette lighter plugs (if you want to plug into
>> cigarette lighter - could be direct wired as well)
>>
>> . 3/8 in. Brass 90-Degree Compression x MIP Elbow ($4.73 at Home
>> Depot:
>> http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100637959/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId
>> =-1
>> <http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100637959/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langI
>> d=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053> &storeId=10051&catalogId=10053")
>>
>> . 3/8" barb x 3/8" FIPS brass fitting
>>
>> . Vinyl tubing in 3 sizes: 5/8" 1/2" and 3/8" (all dimensions Inside
>> Diameter)
>>
>> . Polyethylene pipe wrap insulation, such as here:
>> http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100572787/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId
>> =-1
>> <http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100572787/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langI
>> d=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053> &storeId=10051&catalogId=10053
>>
>> . Barbed tubing connectors
>>
>> o (1) 5/8" straight
>>
>> o (1) 1/2" 'T'
>>
>> o (2) 3/8" straight
>>
>> . Scraps of wood or plywood sufficient to make a stand for the
>> Evaporator/Blower box
>>
>> . Crimp-on wire connectors
>>
>> . (options) Hose clamps in appropriate sizes
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Here is what you do (note: photo album here:
>> http://entertainment.webshots.com/album/580337059eTHqGs)
>>
>>
>>
>> Cooler Assembly:
>>
>> 1. Drill a 5/8" hole in the top of the cooler and force the 5/8" barb
>> connector into the hole
>>
>> 2. Drill a 3/8" hole in the top of the cooler and force one of the
>> 3/8" barb connectors into the hole
>>
>> 3. Drill a hole in the top of the cooler just large enough to pass the
>> two pump wires through
>>
>> 4. Place the pump in the bottom of the cooler and pass the wires up
>> through the cover using hole #3 above
>>
>> 5. Cut a piece of 5/8" vinyl tubing long enough to connect the pump
>> output to the 5/8" barb connector installed above (note, the pump output
>> tube is 3/4" but you can force the 5/8" vinyl tubing onto it with care) The
>> tubing should be just long enough such that the pump will rest on the bottom
>> of the cooler when the lid is close but not so long as to cause a kink in
>> the hose. If you want to secure it better, apply hose clamps to each end.
>>
>> 6. Apply a short piece of 3/8" tubing to the underside of the 3/8"
>> barb in the cover. This tubing only serves to help keep the barb from being
>> pulled out and is optional if your barb fits snugly in the cover. Hose
>> clamp optional.
>>
>>
>>
>> Evaporator Stand
>>
>> 1. (Optional) If you are not installing this in a car, you need to use
>> the wood to build a stand to keep the evaporator box level. I used
>> cardboard to template each end of the box and then transferred the template
>> to 1/4" plywood to create left and right sides to cradle the box, then
>> assembled the sides to pieces of wood on the front, back, and bottom
>>
>>
>>
>> Replacement of Expansion Valve
>>
>> 1. Open the evaporator box (remove screws) and remove the evaporator
>>
>> 2. Remove the expansion valve
>>
>> 3. Modify the 3/8" Brass 90-degree Compression fitting so it will fit
>> the tube that attached to the expansion valve you removed:
>>
>> 4. Clamp the fitting in your bench vise and then, using progressively
>> larger drill bits in your electric drill, gradually enlarge the hole in the
>> compression end of the fitting until it is large enough to fit the
>> evaporator tube.
>>
>> 5. Use a hacksaw to remove then non-threaded tapered end of the
>> compression fitting.
>>
>> 6. Smooth the sawed end of the fitting with a belt sander. It needs
>> to be smooth and flat for the tubing O-ring to seat against.
>>
>> 7. Attach the modified fitting to the evaporator core
>>
>> 8. Attach the 3/8" barb x 3/8" FIPS brass fitting to the other end of
>> the modified fitting.
>>
>> 9. Rotate the 90 degree fitting so it is pointing toward the FRONT of
>> the evaporator coil (180 degrees from the exit hole)
>>
>> 10. Attach a length of 3/8" vinyl tube to the barb fitting and loop it 270
>> degrees around the side of the evaporator coil so it is pointing the right
>> direction to exit the back of the evaporator box.
>>
>> 11. Secure the hose to the side of the evaporator coil using some twist
>> ties attached to the 2 metal bands that used to hold the expansion valve
>> thermal sensor.
>>
>> 12. Reinstall the evaporator into the evaporator box, being careful to
>> route the new vinyl hose out the back, and reinstalling the rubber grommet
>> around the new hose and existing tube.
>>
>> 13. Trim the 3/8' vinyl tube to the approximate length of the existing
>> 5/8"tube and then install the remaining 3/8" barbed connector
>>
>>
>>
>> Wiring Harnesses
>>
>> 1. Use 12g black wire and appropriate sized ring crimp terminal to
>> attach a ground wire to one of the 1/4" screws that secures the blower motor
>> to the blower housing, connect other end to negative 12v power source
>>
>> 2. Use 12g red wire and crimp terminals to connect blower power
>> terminal to blower resistor block located in blower housing
>>
>> 3. Use 12g red wire and crimp terminal to connect blower resistor to
>> positive 12V power source (I used cigarette lighter plugs, but if installed
>> in a car would use stock AC switch and power source.
>>
>> 4. Likewise create a wiring harness to connect to cooler pump.
>>
>>
>>
>> Hoses
>>
>> 1. Attach 1/2" vinyl tubing to 2 drain ports on back of evaporator box
>> and connect with 1/2" 'T' connector; attach 3rd hose to other end of 'T' and
>> outside to drain
>>
>> 2. Attach 5/8" vinyl tubing to cooler and to evaporator (length of
>> your choosing)
>>
>> 3. Attach 3/8" vinyl tubing to cooler and to evaporator (length of
>> your choosing)
>>
>> 4. Insulate 5/8" and 3/8" hoses with polyethylene pipe wrap insulation
>>
>>
>>
>> Operation
>>
>> 1. Fill cooler with cubed or small chunks of ice
>>
>> 2. Add ice water to a depth of about 2")
>>
>> 3. Close cooler lid
>>
>> 4. Turn on pump and blower and enjoy cool, dry air!
>>
>>
>>
>> Note: I actually built this and then ran it outside on a hot sunny day. The
>> ice lasted about three hours. The next step is to install the unit in a
>> Corvair, and then test it out. I figure that even if I have to get new ice
>> every couple of hours it is still easier than installing a compressor,
>> condenser, dryer, hoses, etc, and if it doesn't work out I haven't really
>> spent much money or time anyway.
>>
>>
>>
>> Photo album here: http://entertainment.webshots.com/album/580337059eTHqGs
>>
>>
>>
>> Bill Hubbell
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
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