<VV> Icewater Air Conditioner
Ron
ronh at owt.com
Tue Jun 14 13:59:52 EDT 2011
With so little ice, it would have only a very short term cooling ability.
You need something with at least 100 pounds of ice or maybe a freon
compressor?
RonH
----- Original Message -----
From: "William Hubbell" <whubbell at verizon.net>
To: "Virtual Vairs" <virtualvairs at corvair.org>
Sent: Monday, June 13, 2011 7:29 PM
Subject: <VV> Icewater Air Conditioner
>I had a bit of fun this weekend making an ice-water air conditioner.
> Basically, this is an air conditioner that uses ice to provide cooling as
> opposed to Freon, but yes, it really is an air conditioner, not a swamp
> cooler. And yes, I did make it with Corvair Parts, mostly, so it does
> belong on this list. Note: photos here:
> http://entertainment.webshots.com/album/580337059eTHqGs
>
>
>
> Here is how I did it
>
>
>
> Parts List
>
> . Evaporator/Blower box from an Early Model Corvair
>
> . Tsunami 500 GPH Cartridge Bilge Pump, 12VDC ($17.96 at walmart:
> http://www.walmart.com/ip/Tsunami-500-GPH-Cartridge-Bilge-Pump-12VDC/1107126
> 8)
>
> . Igloo Island Breeze 28 quart Personal Cooler ($15.88 at Walmart:
> http://www.walmart.com/ip/Igloo-Island-Breeze-28-Quart-Personal-Cooler/16437
> 966)
>
> . 12 gauge wire (Red and Black)
>
> . (2) 10-amp cigarette lighter plugs (if you want to plug into
> cigarette lighter - could be direct wired as well)
>
> . 3/8 in. Brass 90-Degree Compression x MIP Elbow ($4.73 at Home
> Depot:
> http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100637959/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId
> =-1
> <http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100637959/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langI
> d=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053> &storeId=10051&catalogId=10053")
>
> . 3/8" barb x 3/8" FIPS brass fitting
>
> . Vinyl tubing in 3 sizes: 5/8" 1/2" and 3/8" (all dimensions
> Inside
> Diameter)
>
> . Polyethylene pipe wrap insulation, such as here:
> http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100572787/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId
> =-1
> <http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100572787/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langI
> d=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053> &storeId=10051&catalogId=10053
>
> . Barbed tubing connectors
>
> o (1) 5/8" straight
>
> o (1) 1/2" 'T'
>
> o (2) 3/8" straight
>
> . Scraps of wood or plywood sufficient to make a stand for the
> Evaporator/Blower box
>
> . Crimp-on wire connectors
>
> . (options) Hose clamps in appropriate sizes
>
>
>
>
>
> Here is what you do (note: photo album here:
> http://entertainment.webshots.com/album/580337059eTHqGs)
>
>
>
> Cooler Assembly:
>
> 1. Drill a 5/8" hole in the top of the cooler and force the 5/8"
> barb
> connector into the hole
>
> 2. Drill a 3/8" hole in the top of the cooler and force one of the
> 3/8" barb connectors into the hole
>
> 3. Drill a hole in the top of the cooler just large enough to pass
> the
> two pump wires through
>
> 4. Place the pump in the bottom of the cooler and pass the wires up
> through the cover using hole #3 above
>
> 5. Cut a piece of 5/8" vinyl tubing long enough to connect the pump
> output to the 5/8" barb connector installed above (note, the pump output
> tube is 3/4" but you can force the 5/8" vinyl tubing onto it with care)
> The
> tubing should be just long enough such that the pump will rest on the
> bottom
> of the cooler when the lid is close but not so long as to cause a kink in
> the hose. If you want to secure it better, apply hose clamps to each end.
>
> 6. Apply a short piece of 3/8" tubing to the underside of the 3/8"
> barb in the cover. This tubing only serves to help keep the barb from
> being
> pulled out and is optional if your barb fits snugly in the cover. Hose
> clamp optional.
>
>
>
> Evaporator Stand
>
> 1. (Optional) If you are not installing this in a car, you need to
> use
> the wood to build a stand to keep the evaporator box level. I used
> cardboard to template each end of the box and then transferred the
> template
> to 1/4" plywood to create left and right sides to cradle the box, then
> assembled the sides to pieces of wood on the front, back, and bottom
>
>
>
> Replacement of Expansion Valve
>
> 1. Open the evaporator box (remove screws) and remove the evaporator
>
> 2. Remove the expansion valve
>
> 3. Modify the 3/8" Brass 90-degree Compression fitting so it will
> fit
> the tube that attached to the expansion valve you removed:
>
> 4. Clamp the fitting in your bench vise and then, using
> progressively
> larger drill bits in your electric drill, gradually enlarge the hole in
> the
> compression end of the fitting until it is large enough to fit the
> evaporator tube.
>
> 5. Use a hacksaw to remove then non-threaded tapered end of the
> compression fitting.
>
> 6. Smooth the sawed end of the fitting with a belt sander. It needs
> to be smooth and flat for the tubing O-ring to seat against.
>
> 7. Attach the modified fitting to the evaporator core
>
> 8. Attach the 3/8" barb x 3/8" FIPS brass fitting to the other end
> of
> the modified fitting.
>
> 9. Rotate the 90 degree fitting so it is pointing toward the FRONT
> of
> the evaporator coil (180 degrees from the exit hole)
>
> 10. Attach a length of 3/8" vinyl tube to the barb fitting and loop it
> 270
> degrees around the side of the evaporator coil so it is pointing the right
> direction to exit the back of the evaporator box.
>
> 11. Secure the hose to the side of the evaporator coil using some twist
> ties attached to the 2 metal bands that used to hold the expansion valve
> thermal sensor.
>
> 12. Reinstall the evaporator into the evaporator box, being careful to
> route the new vinyl hose out the back, and reinstalling the rubber grommet
> around the new hose and existing tube.
>
> 13. Trim the 3/8' vinyl tube to the approximate length of the existing
> 5/8"tube and then install the remaining 3/8" barbed connector
>
>
>
> Wiring Harnesses
>
> 1. Use 12g black wire and appropriate sized ring crimp terminal to
> attach a ground wire to one of the 1/4" screws that secures the blower
> motor
> to the blower housing, connect other end to negative 12v power source
>
> 2. Use 12g red wire and crimp terminals to connect blower power
> terminal to blower resistor block located in blower housing
>
> 3. Use 12g red wire and crimp terminal to connect blower resistor to
> positive 12V power source (I used cigarette lighter plugs, but if
> installed
> in a car would use stock AC switch and power source.
>
> 4. Likewise create a wiring harness to connect to cooler pump.
>
>
>
> Hoses
>
> 1. Attach 1/2" vinyl tubing to 2 drain ports on back of evaporator
> box
> and connect with 1/2" 'T' connector; attach 3rd hose to other end of 'T'
> and
> outside to drain
>
> 2. Attach 5/8" vinyl tubing to cooler and to evaporator (length of
> your choosing)
>
> 3. Attach 3/8" vinyl tubing to cooler and to evaporator (length of
> your choosing)
>
> 4. Insulate 5/8" and 3/8" hoses with polyethylene pipe wrap
> insulation
>
>
>
> Operation
>
> 1. Fill cooler with cubed or small chunks of ice
>
> 2. Add ice water to a depth of about 2")
>
> 3. Close cooler lid
>
> 4. Turn on pump and blower and enjoy cool, dry air!
>
>
>
> Note: I actually built this and then ran it outside on a hot sunny day.
> The
> ice lasted about three hours. The next step is to install the unit in a
> Corvair, and then test it out. I figure that even if I have to get new
> ice
> every couple of hours it is still easier than installing a compressor,
> condenser, dryer, hoses, etc, and if it doesn't work out I haven't really
> spent much money or time anyway.
>
>
>
> Photo album here: http://entertainment.webshots.com/album/580337059eTHqGs
>
>
>
> Bill Hubbell
>
>
>
>
>
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