<VV> front cross member

[henry kaczmarek]

Mark
He weren't wrong, son!  Never owned a Vair that was above the Manson-Nixon 
line, and both car and FC front x members hit the ground within about 45 
minutes.

Some Seafoam Deep Creep works well to help aid things along.  I've sprayed 
Deep Creep on top of PB blaster and watched the deep creep go right through 
the PB blaster---I think PB is highly over-rated.

Hank
> Once had a southerner state, matter of  factly, that it was "six bolts and
> it's on the floor."
>
> Yea, right, braggart......
>
> Here in the rustbelt, it's more like a 6-hour job with a hotwrench. And a
> LOT of swearing, if one is so inclined.
>
> -Mark (waving the blue fog away)
>
>
>> [Original Message]
>> From: Ron <ronh at owt.com>
>> Subject: Re: <VV> front cross member
>>
>> Here in the northwest we recently removed both the front and rear
>> suspensions from a '64 out in a field and both came off without anything
>> breaking, just a little cussing.
>> RonH
>>
>> ----- Original Message ----- 
>> From: "Rick Norris" <ricknorris at suddenlink.net>
>> Subject: Re: <VV> front cross member
>>
>> >
>> > In all the front crossmembers I have removed I have never been able to
> get
>> > all the bolts out with out messing up the cage which is just sheet
> metal
>> > or
>> > breaking the bolt.
>> > Of course I live in the rust belt somewhat too. My experience says one
> or
>> > more nuts will "spin" inside the cage. You can jam a screwdriver into
> the
>> > opening on the side of the cage to hold the nut while you try to loosen
>> > it.
>> > If the cage has been ripped up you have to wedge a wrench onto the
> square
>> > nut to hold it. I have had to cut the head off the boll to get the
>> > crossmember out then, chisel off the cage. I have rewelded the cage
> back
>> > in
>> > place and replaced all the mounting hardware. I have also removed the
>> > cages
>> > and left them off. Your option.
>> >
>> > Rick Norris
>> > #36 Sunoco Corvair
>> > www.corvairalley.com
>> >
>> >>
>> >> A real Corvair question and that is need to know the best way to 
>> >> remove
>> >> front crossmember without destroying all the holding bolts and nuts on
>> >> one
>> >> that has rusted to where it may mean the bolts will break as removed.
> Do
>> >> you drill up through the broken pieces and replace?  What is your
>> >> experience in this area before we start on it?
>> >
>
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