<VV> Overheating - Deflashing Heads

[Dale Dewald]

At 16:18 7/26/2010 -0400, Bill H wrote:

 >>>snip<<<
>It hit me that not de-flashing my cylinder heads was a B-I-G mistake, and I
>better do this before I take the car out again on a trip.? She still runs 
>and I
>pray to the Al-mighty that I didn't damage her engine permanently.
>.
>So, does anyone have suggestions for the best (and least intrusive) way to
>deflash the heads?? I don't mind removing the top shrouds if it doesn't 
>take all
>day to do, and if it makes de-flashing easier.? Can de-flashing be done 
>from the
>top of the engine instead of getting under the car

 >>>snip<<<
>.I've heard that a?long 1/8" drill bit is the best way to go.? If that's 
>so, then I assume that this size bit will fit in between the fins?

Yes, this job can be done in the car--it is just hard to lean over for the 
time it takes to do a good job. Unfortunately it will take most of a day to 
do. Perhaps you could rig up a table to lay down upon to work at it. Here 
are some suggestions to make the job easier:

1) Remove the both carburetors, fuel lines, cross shaft, and fuel pump 
(stock mechanical or dummy) as one complete assembly.  After removing the 
air cleaner pieces just disconnect the fuel line from the tank at the pump, 
remove the pump screw, disconnect the choke and accelerator rods, pull off 
the distributor vacuum line, remove the carburetor nuts, then lift the 
whole assembly out.

2) A hacksaw blade with the back side ground down works well to open up all 
but the most heavily block passageways. This is where a 1/8" dia 12" long 
aircraft drill bit comes in handy. However, I like to use the thicker and 
stronger blades that fit the Milwaukee Sawz-All. A 8" or 12" tapered 
general purpose or finer tooth blade works well.  Milwaukee also sells a 
hand grip with the clamp and screw for mounting any standard blade.

3) Remove the lower shrouds (you will generate quite a bit of aluminum 
dust) and slide a cheap florescent shop lamp under the head you are working 
on.  Take before/after photos so you can document the progress.

4) Check to make sure the "tempered air" hose from the top shroud to the 
heater box is in tact.  You may want to make a block off plate to fit in 
place of or under the outlet elbow for this hose. I have made a restrictor 
plate with a 1" hole in the middle to preserve yet reduce the this function 
but retain stock appearance.

Please report back to us as to what you find.

You may want to get into the habit of shifting to neutral whenever you stop 
at traffic lights or if in traffic it looks like you may be paused for a 
while. This lets the engine speed up a bit for better cooling.

Dale Dewald
Hancock, MI