<VV> Paint, was: Comments to the Virginia DMV (humor) and the ForbiddenMentionof painting

Mon Sep 21 14:11:35 EDT 2009

 Indeed, Harry! Imron requires the correct base to adhere to. Given that it IS a reactive, isocyanate containing polymer, it needs a surface with both active hydrogen groups AND reasonable surface energy. Neither acrylic or nitrocellulose lacquers meet these needs. Now, if you did Imron over Imron, life would be SWEET!

John Roberts

-----Original Message-----
From: Harry  Yarnell <hyarnell1 at earthlink.net>
To: airvair at earthlink.net; Tony Underwood <tony.underwood at cox.net>; Mike Stillwell <yenko117 at yahoo.com>
Cc: virtualvairs at corvair.org
Sent: Mon, Sep 21, 2009 1:22 pm
Subject: Re: <VV> Paint, was: Comments to the Virginia DMV (humor) and the ForbiddenMentionof painting

Sorry Mark, base coat/clear coat is the only way to fly. Obviously something 
went wrong when your clear was applied.
On that note, I painted a '75 Cutlass years ago with white lacquer and clear 
Imron top coat. A couple years later, the clear Imron peeled off in sheets. 
Apparently what I did was a no-no.

Harry Yarnell
Perryman garage and orphanage
Perryman, MD
hyarnell1 at earthlink.net
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <airvair at earthlink.net>
To: "Tony Underwood" <tony.underwood at cox.net>; "Mike Stillwell" 
<yenko117 at yahoo.com>
Cc: <virtualvairs at corvair.org>
Sent: Monday, September 21, 2009 12:40 PM
Subject: <VV> Paint,was: Comments to the Virginia DMV (humor) and the 
ForbiddenMentionof painting

> My trailer (which is a '93) was originally painted Cadillac red, with a
> clearcoat. The clearcoat has taken to peeling off, leaving the base coat
> exposed. Based on that and other experiences, I wouldn't paint a car with
> basecoat/clearcoat.
>
> -Mark
>
>
>> [Original Message]
>> From: Tony Underwood <tony.underwood at cox.net>
>> Subject: Re: <VV> Comments to the Virginia DMV (humor) and the
> ForbiddenMention of painting
>>
>> I've begun considering (since Mr Vigilante and his cute little
>> friggin' note) just registering the car with the 1960 plates as a
>> standard registration, put the yearly decals on the corner of those
>> tags, get it inspected (it should have no trouble passing) and
>> driving the thing exclusively everywhere and every place and wear it
>> out instead of the Jeep ;).
>>
>>
>> Either that, or paint it...
>>
>>
>> That's a viable option right about now seeing as I'm in the mood,
>> having shifted into "paint and body" mode over the last week.
>>
>>
>> Remember that '62 ragtop from Back When?    Painted it (finally)
>> maroon, finished the final color coat yesterday, now waiting the
>> required day or so for the paint to harden and cure before buffing it
>> out, and yes it's lacquer and I'll probably regret it after a few
>> years.   Lacquer these days isn't what it used to be, although this
>> particular maroon stuff is "vintage" paint that had been sitting for
>> quite some time, probably a couple of decades now.   It still was
>> fine, no settling or thickening nor did it do anything but just go on
>> smoothly.
>>
>> I'd been looking for "back shelf" lacquer on Ebay and at paint shops
>> around town for some time, trying to find older commercial quality
>> stuff that hopefully still had some substance to it and I've acquired
>> some older lacquer that although rather long of tooth still seems to
>> be pretty good and looks as if it will maybe work out without rotting
>> when exposed to the sun for a couple of years.
>>
>> Recently (well, several years ago) we bought some fresh Roman Red
>> lacquer (PPG) to paint the '60 Monza and it has NOT held up
>> well.   Even clear coated, it has faded and is beginning to flake on
>> the top surfaces that catch the most sunlight and will need a partial
>> repaint again.    The same color red that is on the recently acquired
>> '61 Lakewood which hasn't seen any wax since 1971 and has been
>> sitting in the weather a VERY long time will STILL shine if waxed and
>> indeed the sides are still showing gloss now, and that paint is the
>> factory original lacquer.    I don't know what GM was using then but
>> it sure holds up better than what is available these days.
>>
>>
>> As mentioned, lacquer ain't what it used to be.    This is partly the
>> reason I decided to use this gallon of dusty and faded-label maroon
>> paint that had been sitting around for many years.   Hopefully it's
>> gonna hold up.   Likewise the Datsun red I have, and some DuPont
>> white (ford white) and a gallon of DuPont black that dates back to
>> the late '70s I think...  not sure if I'm gonna turn up any more old
>> lacquer in this town.   I still haunt Ebay now and again looking for
>> vintage lacquer but it's dried up even there. ;)
>>
>>
>>
>> I have considered using a urethane clearcoat over lacquer to help
>> make it more durable but I'm suspicious of how well it will actually
>> stay on the car.  Urethanes are still basically enamels (tough
>> enamels, I admit) but enamels do not have a very good history of
>> sticking to plastic paint such as acrylic lacquer.    Others in the
>> business I've talked to have said they hadn't had very good luck with
>> clearcoating lacquer with urethane.    So, this maroon is gonna be
>> it... we'll see how it holds up to the environment.
>>
>> If nothing else it's an excuse to go out and buy some more Meguiars #8.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> tony..
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