<VV> clutch job: remove the drivetrain the conventional way orengine only?

[aeroned at aol.com]

Mel,



I've seen all sorts of brackets like yours, made from just about anything, even wood. They sure are great for moving the disabled car around. I'd like to see pictures of your version.



Thanks,

Ned








-----Original Message-----
From: Mel Francis <mfrancis at wi.rr.com>
To: virtualvairs at corvair.org
Cc: HallGrenn at aol.com
Sent: Fri, Sep 11, 2009 12:35 pm
Subject: Re: <VV> clutch job: remove the drivetrain the conventional way orengine only?



One of the worst situations is an LM without it's engine in place, for the 
duration of an engine build. All the mechanicals droop and further distort
any of the rubber cushions and connecting links. A car empty of the complete 
drivetrain is virtually unmoveable, until the entire assembly returns.

I made up a simple welded-together bracket from angle stock, which takes the 
place of the engine and allows you to reconnect to the rear engine mount.
This brings the transaxle back to its original position and then allows you 
to roll the car around, even flat-towing for short distances!

I had heard of this sort of bracket on the forum, but hadn't seen any 
examples, so I came up with my own. If anyone would like a photo of this 
device,
I'd be glad to send you one. Clark's or one of the other suppliers should 
sell this simple bracket. It sure simplifies long-term engine work.

Mel

65 Monza Convertible


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <HallGrenn at aol.com>
To: <tkalp at cox.net>; <grymm at echoes.net>
Cc: <virtualvairs at corvair.org>
Sent: Friday, September 11, 2009 11:52 AM
Subject: Re: <VV> clutch job: remove the drivetrain the conventional way 
orengine only?


> In a message dated 9/10/2009 11:31:02 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
> tkalp at cox.net writes:
>
> Well this shouldn't start a thread longer than the LM vs EM or cold valve
> adjustment versus hot, but I prefer to drop the whole power train as
> described  in the manual.  I've learned it actually takes less time once 
> you are
> committed to doing it and plan it out.  And most importantly, you don't
> stress the front mounts, the shift tube or shift tube bracket and run the
> chance of breaking the snout.  I have done it both ways, but now  I always 
> drop
> the whole drive train.  Besides, the bolts are supposed  to hold the
> engine/diff together and not to be used to pull the whole thing  together. 
> Racers
> have different needs, but for everyday drivers I'd  recommend dropping it 
> by
> the book.
>
> Bob
>
> On LMs I  always remove the engine only if I 
can get by with it.  I have
> a  transmission jack with an adapter to the Corvair oil pan and use guide
> pins (headless bolts) to remove and replace the engine and protect the
> diff. snout. If you need more info on the guide pins let me  know.
>
> You could try one each way and report back  <G>.
>
> tkalp
> wichita, ks
>
>
> On Thu, Sep 10, 2009 at 9:54  PM , Ray Rodriguez (Grymm) wrote:
>
>> I now have two Corsa 140/4s that  I need to get to the clutch on...   I
>> got instructions a  while back from someone on how to remove the engine
>> only rather than  pull the engine/tranny combo...
>> What do you guys think is easier and  faster?  I have to do it twice
>> now!!!
>>
>> I just  felt like putting the trans back in was the worst part of the
>> job the  last time...  its tempting to avoid  it.
>>
>>
>
>
>
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