<VV> Cylinder head temp thermister

[Dave Thompson]

Hi guys, 

 

Before my engine was rebuilt, the cylinder head temp gauge worked (even
though the engine barely did). Now that the engine is rebuilt, the gauge no
longer works. I have tested good continuity from the disconnected gauge wire
under the dash back to the end disconnected from the thermister. However, I
get a full open from the thermister tip threads to ground (the head) while
cold. I haven’t pulled the thermister yet due to it’s location behind the
exhaust tube. What resistance should I expect between the thermister tip
threads and head when cold? Is there any reason why I shouldn’t run the
engine with the lower shroud off to warm up the head for another test? Can I
use my resister substitute box from the thermister wire to ground to test
the gauge? What resistance should I try? I don’t want to blow up my gauge.
Also, with the key off, I get about ¼ gauge reading, key on, zero. I don’t
remember what I got before the engine rebuild. I can’t find any testing
information in the green book.

 

Thanks in advance

 

Dave Thompson

63 Spyder

 

P.S. Is there a trick to jacking up the rear other than one side at a time?
It scares me to use a floor jack to lift the rear by the oil pan or
differential. Yes, I use jack stands for safety.