<VV> PG engine into 4 speed car (clutch pilot bushing install)

[Bill Meglen]

Very recent experience! My newly acquired 1963 Spyder was purchased it 
with clutch disk disintegrated. I decided to upgrade and installed a 
complete late clutch kit & bolted recessed flywheel in it.  Tapped the 
new pilot shaft bushing in flush with crank. Tight fit on pilot shaft. 
In hindsight i think at least one of the ends of the bushings ID's is 
chamfered and should be outboard and driven in beyond flush.  About 
1/16" - 1/32" inch. The pilot shaft shoulder(?) bearing on the bushing 
created a "direct drive" link, meaning that with the clutch disengaged 
the car crept forward slowly and could not be shifted at a standstill 
with engine running.  I did not feel that I had "pulled down" the 
differential when bolting it to the bell housing.

Several diagnosis were offered by the list for the symptoms that dealt 
with improper geometry in the clutch. One seemed plausible, resulting 
perhaps from an early (shorter) ball stud with late 64+, clutch in a 
1963.  That does not appear to be the problem! Second diagnosis was,  a 
tight new pilot shaft bushing that if driven some miles would loosen 
up.  That did not work either! Power train out again, bushing spun 
freely not only on the pilot shaft but evidence that the bushing itself 
spun within the crank...now a finger loose fit! Some marks on bushing 
suggested it was tight against the shoulder of the pilot shaft which I 
surmise created the "direct drive" symptom.  Measurements suggested 
that the bushing needed to be driven beyond flush about 1/32".  
Examination of another engine affirmed that bushing was inserted beyond 
flush.

My theory is that I did not seat the bushing deep enough and while I 
had not noticed I must have drawn down the diff to the bell housing 
with the bolts. That in combination produced the problem. Replaced new 
bushing in below flush config.  Drove the car today "creep" symptom 
gone but shifting is tight.  I replaced the plastic bushing on shift 
rod linkage and hope that, in combination with some clutch adjustment 
is contibuting to the shift difficulties.

If I do another clutch I think I will try to use a bushing driver that 
will allow me to drive it below flush without deforming the bushing and 
will assure that pilot shaft will turn freely after the bushing is 
seated.  My first bushing was tighter fitting than the second one?

An afterthought.  I noted in the Junkyard Primer that the 60-63 4-SPD 
pilot shaft is 23 1/4" and the 64-65 4-SPD is 23 5/16" not sure why the 
difference in length if it is the differential or transmission that 
necessitates the additional 1/16" and if or how a mismatch of pilot 
shafts could have contributed to my problem.  My differential appears 
to be 1963. A friend checked dimensions of pilot shaft but I'm not sure 
at this writing what length it is.

Bill


On Apr 19, 2006, at 7:41 PM, <monza63mo at peoplepc.com> wrote:

> I'm putting a 140 engine that used to be in my PG car into my other 
> car with a 4 speed.  I'm at the point where I need to put the clutch 
> pilot bushing into the end of the 140 crank.  I'm wondering if there 
> is some sort of prep needed or do I just tap the bushing in?  I 
> noticed that the bushing will be an extremely tight fit and I want to 
> avoid any possible damage to the new bushing or the crank.  Any 
> advice?  Special tool needed?
>
> Art