<VV> Removing head studs

[N. Joseph Potts]

I had forgotten that these are flanged nuts. I always suspected that the
sharp, numerous blows of an air wrench would be more likely to get the nut
loose without turning the stud than any steady torque such as one applies by
hand (or arm). I would imagine this technique might "dimple" the soft,
aluminum head somewhat under the flanges.
     I have a used head (not on the car) with such dimples and I've been
wondering about how they got there (doubting that it was done merely with
high torque on the nuts), and the scenario you describe strikes me as a
possible explanation for them. Have you ever observed such, once the head
was off?
     I wonder if this could work without welding the socket to the flange.
It would require one more hand (to hold the socket), and it would beat the
dickens out of the socket, but I don't have welding.

Joe Potts
Miami, Florida USA
1966 Corsa coupe 140hp 4-speed with A/C
  -----Original Message-----
  From: Daniel Monasterio [mailto:dmonasterio at megared.net.mx]
  Sent: Sunday, September 04, 2005 7:27 PM
  To: N. Joseph Potts; virtualvairs at corvair.org
  Subject: RE: <VV> Removing head studs


      I used a pneumatic hammer, hammering in line with the stud, on the
lower side (like washer) of the nut, using a 9/16", 6 point socket welded to
a discarded shank. The idea is to crush or reduce to powder the rust between
the stud and nut threads. It works only if the nuts are of the original
type. The WD-40, or similar, aids in taking out the powdered rust. After
this step, I used an impact wrench (9/16", 6 point socket) giving a few
shots out, then in, then out... until the nut starts moving. I don't know
why but, the impact wrench works better than a hand wrench on turning the
nut only and not the stud. Sometimes it is better to use a 14 mm. socket
instead of a 9/16" (14.3 mm) because of tighter fit to the nut.

      Daniel