<VV> Removing head studs

[Daniel Monasterio]

<<Does this process use an air hammer, or just a regular hammer? Is one
hammering IN LINE with the stud, or applying torque (hammering on the SIDES
of the nut, or its FACE)?>>

    I used a pneumatic hammer, hammering in line with the stud, on the lower side (like washer) of the nut, using a 9/16", 6 point socket welded to a discarded shank. The idea is to crush or reduce to powder the rust between the stud and nut threads. It works only if the nuts are of the original type. The WD-40, or similar, aids in taking out the powdered rust. After this step, I used an impact wrench (9/16", 6 point socket) giving a few shots out, then in, then out... until the nut starts moving. I don't know why but, the impact wrench works better than a hand wrench on turning the nut only and not the stud. Sometimes it is better to use a 14 mm. socket instead of a 9/16" (14.3 mm) because of tighter fit to the nut.

    Daniel

<<There is a way I've used with frozen nuts, prior to attempting
unscrewing. Some WD-40 (PB blaster not available) then, some hammering, with
a 6 point socket welded to an air hammer shank, more WD-40, more hammering.
If after hammering you see some rust mixed with the WD-40, it is working !
        A tightened nut has metal to metal contact in one side of each
thread and a gap in the other side. This gap is where most of the rust takes
place and it is softer than metal. With the hammering the rust is crushed in
small particles, which tends to run out mixed with the WD-40 or PB blaster,
making the nut less difficult to turn out.
        Don't sure if enough clear but, hope this could be helpful>>