<VV> Ignitor I Problems humor

[J R Read_HML]

1.  (I start at 1 - others start at 0 for some odd reason)  Remove the 
starter and put duck tape over the exposed ends of the wires that used to 
connect to it.

2.  (comes after 1)  Always park at the top of a hill with the nose pointed 
slightly downward.

3.  (you know)  Always keep at least SOME duck tape in the open space 
between the front bucket seats.  You said Monza, right?  If you are left 
handed, you might prefer a different location of your own choosing.

4.  To start AND RUN the car...  Turn the ign key to the start position. 
Nothing will happen because you don't have a starter.

5.  Using a piece of duck tape (from between the seats or elsewhere), TAPE 
the key into the start position - this will give you full voltage at all 
times....  Well, at least until you see/smell smoke!

6.  Put the car in gear* with clutch depressed and release the 
park/emergency brake.  Let the car roll forward a bit (say 5 to 15 feet - 
you be the judge) and release the clutch (you might have to hurry and put it 
back in if you are about to run into something).  The car SHOULD now START 
AND RUN!

* Ignore all these instructions if the is an automatic transmission car.

Glad to have been of help!

Oh, think about going STOCK!  If not, check with folks who have ignitors. 
Hmmmm, isn't that those little wire things for setting off (igniting) model 
rockets?

Later, JR

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Derek Archer" <eggman at owt.com>
To: <virtualvairs at corvair.org>; "Brian Dierks" 
<Brian.Dierks at columbiabasin.edu>; "Kevin O'Rell" <t_kevin at owt.com>
Sent: Wednesday, July 13, 2005 11:43 PM
Subject: <VV> Ignitor I Problems


>     Hello all. I just installed an Ignitor I electronic ignition  into my 
> '62 Monza Convertible and it runs great. I tried installing  another one 
> into my '64 Spyder coupe and for some reason, it would  start and then cut 
> out instantly. I looked at the Ignitor literature  and it said to check 
> for low voltage to the coil. Now, I know that a  corvair coil should get 
> around 6 volts to the positive terminal with  the ignition on and 12 volts 
> at "start". For some reason, the coil on  the spyder is only receiving 
> about 3 volts with ignition on. I know  the Ignitor is designed to run 
> between 5 and 15 volts. This explains  why it fires up, when the key is on 
> "start", it is getting 12 volts,  which is enough to run it, but when the 
> key is released, it drops to  3 volts, which isn't enough to run the 
> ignitor and the engine dies.  For some reason, there is too much 
> resistance somewhere in the wiring  to the coil. Note that the '64 Spyder 
> has a resistor wire, just like  a regular Corvair engine. (Only the '62 
> and '63 turbos have an  external resistor "block") I either need to figure 
> out why there is  too much resistance OR I could run the ignitor wire to a 
> 12v switched  source. However, I believe the former is more desirable 
> since I want  all the spark energy that I can get.
>
> Derek Archer
> _______________________________________________
> This message was sent by the VirtualVairs mailing list, all copyrights are 
> the property
> of the writer, please attribute properly. For help, 
> mailto:vv-help at corvair.org
> This list sponsored by the Corvair Society of America, 
> http://www.corvair.org/
> Post messages to: VirtualVairs at corvair.org
> Change your options: 
> http://www.vv.corvair.org/mailman/options/virtualvairs 
> _______________________________________________