<VV> 1966 corsa 4-speed crunch 1st-2nd

[Andy Clark]

Uhhhh..... Pulling from 1st to 2nd does not rotate the shift tube. When you
are in 1st, the internal transmission shift fork has already been selected
for the 1-2 gear cluster. It's straight shot, from 1 to 2, because they are
on the same cluster. The shift fork does not rotate when going from 1-2.
I don't understand your statement  "You are  passing thru neutral to do so,
but on the other leg of the "H"."  What other leg? He has a 4spd. You are
already on the 1-2 side of the "H". Only in a 3spd does one change shifting
forks (and therefore change to the other side of the "H") when going from
1st to 2nd.
You are correct, though, that even with minimal slop in the linkage, pulling
slightly to the left and back makes the shift easier. However, my take on
Jim's problem is that the 2nd gear blocking ring is getting worn. This is
usually the first one to go, maybe because the 1st to 2nd shift tends to be
done faster than 3rd to 4th. It's harder on that particular brass ring and
therefore it wears faster.
HTH
Andy Clark
Camano Island, WA.
66 140/4 Monza Sedan
66 140/4 Stinger Clone
66 180/4 Cord 8/10 #60
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "BBRT" <chsadek at adelphia.net>
To: <Jebfmc at aol.com>; <virtualvairs at corvair.org>
Sent: Saturday, December 31, 2005 11:50 AM
Subject: Re: <VV> 1966 corsa 4-speed crunch 1st-2nd


> Jim,
>
> As you are aware, you have an "H' pattern and yes, the 2nd gear needs to
> come left and back.  You are rotating the shift tube which in turn rotates
> the shift selector rod in the transmission, to select 2nd gear. You are
> passing thru neutral to do so, but on the other leg of the "H".  When
> pulling straight back into 4th from third, you also passing thru neutral,
> but you are already on the right hand side of the "H".  When you try and
> pull it more or less straight, it isn't getting the shaft rotated enough
to
> get the shift selector forks in the trans to engage the sycnhros.  You
could
> try adjusting the coupler on the shift tube which goes to the trans
selector
> shaft.  Just a little. First I would look at the pin on the selector shaft
> and make sure it isn't worn or the hole on the coupler isn't worn. As the
> pin or holes get worn, the selector shaft may not be rotated enough. As
you
> may know, the selector shaft (in the lower front of the trans) is hardened
> so don't try and drill it out bigger for another pin. Get the correct pin
or
> make one. there are several ways to fix the coupler holes.  Weld up, or
make
> little bushings.
>
> Lastly, most of the shift towers have worn bushings which also contributes
> not only to sloppy shift lever engagement, but also the amount of fore and
> aft travel of the lower ball on the shift lever (and affect the
rotation ).
> The ball can be worn, too.
>
> Good Luck.
>
> Chuck S
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: <Jebfmc at aol.com>
>
> > Hi Guys and Happy New Year,
> >  The
> > transmission grinds going from 1st to 2nd gear unless I really pull
shift
> > lever rearward and to the left. I can't just pull it straight back like
> > going
> > from 3rd to 4th. No grinding going from 3rd to 4th. Does this sound
like
> > an
> > internal problem (synchronizers/blocking rings) or is there some shifter
> > or
> > linkage adjustment I could try to stop the grinding?
> >
> >          Thanks,
> >       Jim  Bennetts
>
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