<VV> Her car is out of the garage

[N. Joseph Potts]

I play with sharps this way, too, but I believe Eastwood (and body supply
generally) sell a block that you put a razor blade into that holds the blade
just right. It isn't expensive, and it's made for just this purpose.

Joe Potts
Miami, Florida USA
1966 Corsa coupe 140hp 4-speed with A/C

-----Original Message-----
From: virtualvairs-admin@corvair.org
[mailto:virtualvairs-admin@corvair.org]On Behalf Of Frank DuVal
Sent: Tuesday, May 11, 2004 2:15 PM
To: virtualvairs@corvair.org
Subject: <VV> Her car is out of the garage


Anybody have tips for sanding out runs.   I was going to make small
sanding blocks (about 1 inch wide).


Chris:

I use a single edge razor blade. It takes some practice to hold it exactly
parallel to the surface, and concave surfaces can be problematic. You might
sand the two corners of the razor blade so they are not sharp. Anyway, to
cut the run off, think of shaving with the blade perpendicular to the
surface of the car. Do not slope the blade like the disposable razors you
buy for your face. DO not cut the run off with the blade, just scrape it. Be
careful not to let the corners cut into the paint. This technique works best
on clearcoats when the clear is thick so danger of cutting through to base
coat, but I have used it also on single stage colors. Practice in some low
not easily seen area first. After shaving, you could use 1500 grit (2000 is
also available) folded three times ( old painters method) or wrap the
sandpaper on a piece of paint stirring padle (that is flat) for a small
sanding block. You could also do the progressive sanding technique of 1000
grit, then 1500 grit, t!
hen 2000 grit and polish.  All this is wet sanding with water, no dry
sanding at these grit sizes.

And don't forget, if you see the runs happening while painting, use the
masking tape trick to remove them while wet. You may need to see this, it is
hard to describe.

Frank DuVal
64 Spyder Conv needs .........