<VV> Unsolvable Clutch Problem in my FC

[Dan & Synde]

Hi Charles,

I'll take another stab at it too.  I'd have to agree with Bob Helt's theory
that it could be cable stretch.  You mentioned that you lengthened the
clutch pedal which is what I had suggested to you since that is what I had
done.  It fixed my clutch perfectly and I have put well over 100,000 mile on
the system without any problems.  I now have several turns of the clevis
either way before I have problems with disengagement or throwout bearing
contact which makes adjustment far easier.  Before I was within 1/2 turn of
the clevis either way which caused problems depending on the drive train
temperature or wear.  

I remember some time ago that you said you tried increasing the throw back
at the clutch end by creating a lever where the cable connects at one point
and the clutch rod connects at another point on a lever.  Is this still the
case or is it back to a stock configuration where the clutch rod moves the
same amount as the cable does?  I tried the lever trick and ended up
damaging a cable and could no longer use it because it had put too much
tension on it and wore out the plastic cable liner.  When the liner wears
out, the cable rubs against the metal cable housing accelerating wear but
most importantly allows the cable to straighten out at the curves and less
movement is seen at the clutch rod as a result.  Measuring cable movement at
the pedal and at the clutch rod will help reveal if this is happening.
Since this is a conversion, is the cable mounted at the rear in the stock
fashion to the tranny crossmember so it moves with the drive train?  How is
the pedal mounted ie is there possibly any flex there? 

Hope you don't give up on it.  There has to be a logical explaination.

Dan Kling

1961 Greenbrier Deluxe, 4spd, 3.89  On the Road Again,  yeehaw :)
1963 Spyder, restored   4spd Saginaw(made it fit), awaiting engine

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