<VV> Electrical Problem

[Bill H.]

                                                                                                           B"H
Thanks guys for responding!
In response to Doc's email:
1.  The smell goes away after I release the key from the "Start" position.2.  The engine fires instantly with a flick of the key and runs smoothly (except when she unexpectedly stalls, usually on the highway going 65 mph, then she starts back up with the flick of a key.  This happens so randomly there's no way to predict it...I took her from NY to Pittsburgh this past summer and she ran perfectly the entire 700 mile trip...didn't even breathe hard...drove to my Mom's 50 miles away and she stalled about 6-7 times on I-87, but restarted instantly each time)).3.  I recently replaced the starter with a rebuilt (and new solenoid).  Starter itself seems to work fine.4.  On the dash wiring harness connector to the ignition switch...the plastic connector to the "BAT" terminal on the switch is melted.  I'm sure there's a relationship here between the burnt wire smell and that melted plastic... 
My ignition is a Crane Cams XR700.  Coil is a Bosch Blue 0012.  Doesn't overheat and works perfectly.
I'll disconnect the purple wire to the solenoid and see if it's grounded and let you know.
Thanks again everyone...Bill

    On Sunday, March 31, 2019, 11:46:09 PM EDT, roboman91324 at aol.com <roboman91324 at aol.com> wrote:  
 
 Bill,
There are few things as scary as "that smell."
First, if you leave the switch in the "run" not "start" position for a while, do you get the smell?  If not, the problem is in the start circuit somewhere.  In the start position does the starter try to turn the engine over?  Again, if not, the problem is likely in the switch, the wire between the switch and the solenoid or the solenoid itself.  You say you tested the switch and it is OK.
A way to test for this possibility is to disconnect the wire from the ignition switch to the solenoid and see if there is a dead short in it.  I am not sure how the solenoid normally looks with an ohmmeter on it so a better but more difficult way is if you can disconnect the wire at the solenoid and test for a short to ground on the wire, not the solenoid.  It should read "open circuit" to ground.  I. E., infinite ohms.  While you are back there, I heard that a failure mode can be the heat duct from the engine to the passenger compartment coming loose.  I have heard of it shorting to the heavy gauge power wire from the battery to the starter.  It isn't unreasonable that the duct could short to the solenoid wire and cause exactly the problem you describe,
Good luck and keep us posted.
Doc~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
In a message dated 3/31/2019 9:00:19 AM Pacific Standard Time, virtualvairs-request at corvair.org writes:

Message: 1Date: Sun, 31 Mar 2019 01:21:04 +0000 (UTC)From: "Bill H." <gojoe283 at yahoo.com>To: virtualvairs at corvair.orgSubject: <VV> Electrical ProblemMessage-ID: <1413369079.14199063.1553995264165 at mail.yahoo.com>Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8
? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ?B"HHi all...I have a problem that is driving me a bit crazy.? When I turn the key to "START" in my 66 Monza, I smell that "burning electrical" smell.So I disconnected the ignition switch from the dash wires, and tested the switch. It works perfectly.However, I assume the connections to the switch are 12 volts positive?? If so, with the battery disconnected, all the wires connected to the switch show full connectivity with the ground.? I'm confused, are the BAT, SOL, ACC and IGN wires supposed to show connectivity to the 12 volts negative (ground)?Any advise would be greatly appreciated!Best Wishes,??Bill Hershkowitz66 Monza Sport Sedan 110 PG factory A/C?