<VV> 65 Monza battery installation

Tue Dec 11 21:22:59 EST 2018

This is what I installed - I forgot to add the photo last night. I do not know if the photo will come through.  - Seth

-----Original Message-----
From: Dennis Pleau <dpleau at wavecable.com>
To: Seth Emerson <sethracer at aol.com>; virtualvairs <virtualvairs at corvair.org>
Cc: arlettecarl <arlettecarl at hotmail.com>
Sent: Tue, Dec 11, 2018 1:34 pm
Subject: Re: <VV> 65 Monza battery installation

I use a RV 40 amp circuit breaker.

Dennis

Sent from my MetroPCS 4G LTE Android device

-------- Original message --------
From: Seth Emerson via VirtualVairs <virtualvairs at corvair.org> 
Date: 12/10/18  6:53 PM  (GMT-08:00) 
To: virtualvairs at corvair.org 
Cc: arlettecarl at hotmail.com 
Subject: Re: <VV> 65 Monza battery installation 

If you do not need to maintain absolute stock, you can replace the HRPT thing with a real fused junction block. On my 65 Monza, I added a stand alone fuse holder. The second hot lead from the battery positive side feeds the unit. Both outputs are fused. The one on the left goes to the Alternator, the other to feed the rest of the car. You could side-step the rear compartment connector plug and feed that large red lead directly into the fuse holder. Since all my harnesses were new, I decided to just add in a jumper.  - Seth

-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Simpson via VirtualVairs <virtualvairs at corvair.org>
To: aircooled6 <aircooled6 at prodigy.net>
Cc: Virtual Vairs <virtualvairs at corvair.org>; arlettecarl <arlettecarl at hotmail.com>
Sent: Mon, Dec 10, 2018 6:05 pm
Subject: Re: <VV> 65 Monza battery installation

I stand corrected regarding the HRPT (horrid red plastic thingy)!  In my
defense, I've never thought about it in those terms because I've had zero
problems with it.

Jim Simpson
Group Corvair

On Mon, Dec 10, 2018 at 4:47 PM EVERETT WILSON <aircooled6 at prodigy.net>
wrote:

> The "Correct" Corvair Fanatic name for that is the HRPT or Horrid Red
> Plastic Thingy, but your description works as well!  :)
>
> I seem to recall that there is a more modern version of the HRPT that is
> Black and I believe came on the old S-10 Trucks/Blazers.
>
> GM undoubtedly used them on other lines, as well.  It is made of heavier
> plastic with a couple of side shields to help prevent accidental
> short-circuits.
>
> Maybe someone will chime in with that part number.
>
> Happy Monday, Everyone!
>
> Everett Wilson
> North Richland Hills TX
>
>
>
> On Monday, December 10, 2018, 3:09:44 PM CST, Jim Simpson via VirtualVairs
> <virtualvairs at corvair.org> wrote:
>
>
> I'm sure you've already received several responses to this one, but just in
> case...
>
> Figure 1b in the shop manual (page "Battery 6Y-2") seems to show a wire
> going to the frame rail from the positive terminal of the battery.  If you
> look closely you'll see it actually is connecting to a plastic insulator
> that acts as a common terminal for positive distribution to the rest of the
> electrical system.  This plastic insulator is frequently referred to by the
> Corvair community at the "horrid little red thingy" for lack of a better
> term.  Take a look at page "Body and Electrical 12-27" in the shop manual
> and at the bottom, just to the left of the battery you'll see a thing
> called "Junction". That's the "horrid little red thingy".  Note it is a
> distribution point from the positive terminal of the battery to the rest of
> the car's electrical system.
>
> Check the Clark's Corvair Parts catalog, page 99, about the middle of the
> page.  It's titled "Electrical Connectors", part # C6802 (US $ 3.40) along
> with a screw C6827 (US $ 1.15).  The screw is nothing special -- just a
> large sheet metal screw -- but you might as well get them both.
>
> As you discovered, connecting both the negative and positive terminals of
> the battery to a common ground (the frame rail) results in arc welding...
> The negative side of the battery has to have a clean, solid connection to
> the car body via the frame rail.  The positive side *has* to be isolated
> from the body.  Exactly why Chevrolet chose to use a plastic terminal on
> the frame rail I have no idea, probably just a cheap solution to creating a
> power distribution point.  The relatively thin red wire going to that
> terminal is actually a "safety" feature -- as you discovered, when shorted,
> the wire heats up and will ultimately melt sort of acting as a fuse.  Newer
> cars usually have a replaceable fuseable link -- a genuine fuse -- in the
> system instead of a wire to melt.
>
> Some people skip the terminal above and just connect the positive wire to
> the wire goes to the other two wires (all three are red) using a largish
> screw and nut and then insulate it with electrical tape.  That works, but
> is far from neat.  The original plastic terminal does work just fine --
> mine in the original and shows no sign of failure or deterioration after 52
> years of service.
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