<VV> Aftermarket speedometer in LM

Tue Aug 21 18:44:23 EDT 2018

Nice!
Sounds like great advice on the gauges - what's 'normal', and how should 
each gauge look when things are good?
Did you consider a GPS speedo instead of the pulse driven unit?

On 8/20/2018 11:00 PM, Eric Taylor via VirtualVairs wrote:
> HI Bryan,
>
> I see you are not doing an FC project, which is all that I can speak to with
> experience, but here goes..
>
>   
>
> I fully customized the dash of my Rampside.  I machined matching billet
> chunks of aluminium for the dash panel and the glove box lid, then I ordered
> custom gauges to suit my truck.  (Well, the timing does not exactly fit that
> description, but it rolled off the keyboard neatly.  I actually ordered all
> the gauges then designed the dash around them)
>
>   
>
> I bought a pair of head temp gauges, a speedo which reads kilometres as I am
> north of the northern border, a tachometer and a multi gauge which has a
> fuel gauge, oil temp, oil pressure and a voltmeter.  All the gauges I
> figured I would ever need.  I bought them from Classic Instruments who built
> them and matched them to my truck.  I was very happy with them, although in
> truth, I now know things I would do differently.  The multi gauge is the
> real issue.  I was not specific enough with indicating the oil pressure
> range – mine shows zero to 80 and I doubt my engine will ever get over 25PSI
> so there is a great range that will never be used.  The voltmeter and the
> fuel gauge are right on, and the oil temp was all he could do to get a
> usable range.  I asked for zero to 500° but ended up with 320° as my max and
> I can live with that.  What I would like to have is the gauges aligned so
> that the ‘normal’ position of the four gauges is horizontal for all of them
> so that with a single glance I can see all four gauges are showing normal
> results.  Instead, my voltmeter shows normal at about 8 o’clock, the normal
> for the oil temp is about 4 o’clock, the oil pressure is barely readable
> between the 0 and 20PSI but that is around the 9 o-clock position, and the
> fuel gauge keeps going from full to empty way too often!  If you are
> ordering custom gauges, be specific about what range each on should be and
> where you want the ‘normal’ reading to be – it will make you happier in the
> long run.  Look at the picture of the multi gauge and consider where
> everything is pointed when at ‘normal’ – they are all over the place!
>
>   
>
> Now, to address you real question about the speedo, I have an electric pulse
> speedo.  We simply removed the speedo cable at the transaxle and put the
> speed sensor in place of that.  Actually, if I recall correctly, the speed
> sensor supplied was slightly too big to fit so I used an old one as a spacer
> and put the new sensor on top of it.  (the electric speed sensor screws into
> the original speedo output and commonly has a matching speedo cable output
> so that you can continue to use the cable driven speedo if all you want is
> an electric pulse for things such as GPS etc.)  The first one does nothing
> but space the new one out so it does not get hit by the drive axle.  From
> there it is strictly wires that go to the gauge.  The manufacturer supplies
> instructions on how to change the dip switches to adjust to the appropriate
> speed of the vehicle.  (Do this before bolting the dash in permanently as it
> is a bit of a trial and error thing, it took me two tries to get it to the
> point where I now know it should be changed to next time I care to remove
> the dash)
>
>   
>
> Here is a link to some photos of the dash and the gauges:
> https://photos.app.goo.gl/kMSJza6UkTzx2FBr9
>
> Here is a link to the manufacturer of the gauges, and no, I am not related
> or connected to them in any way except as a happy customer.
> https://shop.classicinstruments.com/
>
>   
>
>   
>
> PS.  I have just completed 3,200kms on my new 3.1L motor.  Shortly we will
> install the secondary carbs and make it really go!  This is the first time
> in three years I have been really able to ‘drive ‘ it.  Hallelujah!
> Corveric is back!
>
>   
>
> Eric Taylor
>
>   <mailto:Corveric at me.com> Corveric at me.com
>
>
>
>   
>
> ’61 Corveric, ’63 Pontiac Lemans Coupe, ’71 Triumph GT6
>
> And still my lovely first wife of 33 years.
>
>   
>
>   
>
> Hi folks,
>
>   
>
> I really am going to get back to our '66 project, honest :-)  Once I get the
> windshield panel done and the windshield installed, I'll want to put in the
> instrument cluster.  The odo apparently broke on the way to the Clark's show
> last year and the rest are a bit iffy, my preference at this point is to
> just replace them all, so I picked up a set of adapters to fit standard
> gauges into the Corsa cluster from Seth at the convention.
>
>   
>
> The only issue I see is what speedometer to use?  Most are expecting 1000
> revs per mile, where the late Corvair speedo is set to 825.  There are
> basically three available options:
>
>   
>
> - GPS speedo.  Too expensive for me and there are some issues with GPS
> coverage in cities, mountains, etc.  I'd really rather not.
>
> - Regular speedo with a gearing adapter.  I'm ok with this, but where to get
> said adapter and how do I get the right ratio?
>
> - Electrical speedo with a hall sensor pickup.  This option sounds like what
> I want, but how does one adapt the pickup to the cable and can the
> speedometer then be calibrated without a gearing adapter?
>
>   
>
> I know some folks have put in aftermarket speedometers in.  What did you do
> and how do you like it?  Thanks, as always, for any tips, clues, or how tos.
>
>   
>
> --Bryan
>
>   
>
> Bryan Blackwell | Fairfax Station,  Va. | bryan at skiblack.com |
> http://autoxer.skiblack.com/ CORSA Eastern Div Director
>
>    Corvairs: '62 700 Wagon, '64 Greenbrier, '65 Corsa, '66 Corsa
>
>    '69 Road Runner, '99 Neon R/T, '00 Miata SE, '09 Ford F-150 "Why do
> something if you're not going to obsess about it?"
>
>   
>
>   
>
>   
>
>   
>
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-- 
Jay Maechtlen
SoCal
'61 2-dr modified w/fiberglass skin,
transverse 3.8 Buick V6 TH440T4 trans