<VV> Fwd: '65 Tele Sport Steering Wheel

Sethracer at aol.com Sethracer at aol.com
Mon Dec 5 15:50:32 EST 2016



 
  
____________________________________
 From: Sethracer at aol.com
To: gsteve at hammatt.com
Sent: 12/4/2016 9:51:09  P.M. Pacific Standard Time
Subj: Re: <VV> '65 Tele Sport Steering  Wheel


If it is a telescoping wheel, first unhook the battery. Then start down  
from the small horn button - which pops off. Then pull to two tall screws that 
 hold the tower in place. Next the two small screws (don't drop them!) Then 
 remove the center screw that locks the column then the chrome star that 
was  attached to it. I think you can leave the small ring in place while you 
remove  the 2-screws and one stud that hold the horn switch on. Make a note 
of which  hole had the stud. (The stud is the stop for the chrome ring when 
as you  unlock the column.) At this point just remove the hub/wheel as a 
unit. as far  as the clearance is set, the hub location is likely similar to the 
66 column  since the column shaft assembly itself is, like all 66s, 
retained in the  jacket. I don't have a tele-column around to check the bottom. 
 
-Seth
 
 
In a message dated 12/4/2016 9:40:09 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,  
gsteve at hammatt.com writes:

 
I should clarify.  Yes, we (Mom) took delivery in November  1964.
She saw the ‘65 Corvair while trying to purchase a ‘64 Impala and 
happened to see the Corvair in the dealer’s basement a couple of 
days before they were on display.  She immediately (with my  assistance) 
placed an order, custom built to her (my??) specifications.
It is a telescoping, Sport wheel with a definite early build  date.
 
Steve  Hammatt
Mount Vernon WA USA
 
 

 
From: Sethracer at aol.com 
Sent: Sunday, December 04, 2016 9:30 PM
To: gsteve at hammatt.com ; virtualvairs at corvair.org 
Subject: Re: <VV> '65 Tele Sport Steering  Wheel


 

 
No special trick on the Sport Wheel option (A couple if the wood wheel  is 
on a telescoping column) I will assume it is an early 65. Just use a  
regular 2-bolt puller. On the early 65, the steering wheel is fixed in  place, 
relative to the dash, since the shaft is solid, all the way to the  steering 
box. The outer column can be adjusted to take out that extra gap.  After you 
are done re-installing the turn signal stalk (probably after  replacing the 
turn signal actuator casting) Bolt the wheel back on. There  are two big 
vertical bolts under the edge of the dash. Loosen them a bit.  Then, down at the 
firewall, there is a clamp around the column. The clamp is  part of the 
3-bolt flange that retains the column to the firewall. Loosen  the clamp. No 
need to loosen the three bolts into the firewall. At this  point, the column 
outer jacket should be able to move up toward the wheel,  removing the gap. 
It will probably resist, be careful! I suggest you leave a  little gap, since 
the stamped steel outer jackets on the Sport Wheel hub  often have some 
run-out. If it contacts the column outer "bell" it will  squeak something awful 
when you turn the wheel! I can personally testify to  this. When you have 
the gap you want and the clearance you need, just  tighten up the clamp at 
the firewall and the two bolts under the dash. 
 
If there is no clamp at the firewall and the 3-bolt flange seems to be  
spot welded to the outer diameter of the column - you have a late 65 (same  as 
66) column, and the above method will not work. The relative location of  
the column bell is determined by the space between the seating snap ring at  
the top of the column and the small clamp at the spring at the bottom of the  
column. I would probably remove the column to make this adjustment. 
 
- Seth   
 
 
In a message dated 12/4/2016 9:04:31 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,  
virtualvairs at corvair.org writes:

Undergoing garage rebuild and all my books, etc. are in  storage.
Is there any trick to pulling the steering wheel assembly (the  turn 
signal stalk is very “wobbley”) for a look-see?  It’s a 1965  factory 
equipped “wood” steering wheel.  Also, the rim is in  excellent condition 
expect at the “joint” there’s an 1/8” gap.   How or who to fix this 
gap?
Thanks.


Steve  Hammatt
Mount Vernon WA  USA

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