<VV> 66 A/C Question

[Frank DuVal]

Let me try a picture. Then add tape to seal around the hoses, not duct tape!

Frank

On 8/18/2016 8:52 PM, Garry via VirtualVairs wrote:
> Frank,
>
> Thanks for the wonderful list. I hit maybe 40-50% of those items. This 
> weekend I will address the rest of them. Timothy - by disconnected, 
> what I should have said was that the compressor had been off the 
> bracket and laying off to the side for several years. The system was 
> never opened, in fact it still had some pressure. Before attempting 
> the charge, I had removed, cleaned and straightened the condenser 
> fins, repaired all the dash cables, repaired the fan switch, ohmed the 
> thermostat, replaced the lid switch, added a relay to protect the fan 
> switch, tightened up all hose clamps, and ran the vacuum and let it 
> sit overnight.  While charging I had the lid down, but not latched as 
> the hoses were just laid across the seal. I had not removed the 
> back-up light. Last night I tried again, but my pressures were still 
> higher than what Cliff listed in his reply (Thanks Cliff), so when I 
> make more repairs this weekend I will bleed down again, pull a vacuum, 
> and start over. I have been using what's left over in a 30# can of 
> R-12, so not entirely sure how much was put in, but sure didn't seem 
> like much. I'll use a scale next time.
>
> And yes, Bob, you are correct - this is an excellent list! I should 
> have posed my questions the first night!
>
> Thanks all - I'll keep you posted on the progress.
>
> Garry
>
>
> On 8/17/2016 10:55 PM, Frank DuVal via VirtualVairs wrote:
>> Notes:
>>
>> 1. Engine compartment must be sealed up on 66, 67 models. Tape rust 
>> holes! That worked for me...
>>
>> 2. Remove backup lamp assembly and run hoses through the hole, tape 
>> openings closed.
>>
>> 3. Sight glass should run clear when the charge is enough (or too 
>> much!), while compressor is running.
>>
>> 4. White bubbles usually means not enough R-12 yet. How many pounds 
>> have you put in? Note, some cans are only 12 ounces. System holds 
>> about 4.5 pounds.
>>
>> 5. Tighten the belt. 200 psi is nothing in high temperatures. If it 
>> is squealing at 200 psi, something is wrong, start with loose belt. 
>> There is a reason there are so many braces on the old A-6 compressor. 
>> Clutch should easily handle 350 psi, but hope you never see that. If 
>> it slips at 200 psi, it is bad.
>>
>> 6. I do not have a set of gauges in front of me, but the low pressure 
>> side should run about 35 degrees F. , whatever pressure equals that 
>> on the gauge face. Anything lower than 35 and the evaporator can 
>> freeze up. Or so.... AT least the center dash outlet should not be 
>> below 35 degrees F. Shoot for high 30s to 40.
>>
>> 7. Temperature is actually controlled by thermostat cycling the 
>> compressor, but the charge has to be near correct for that to operate 
>> properly.
>>
>> 8. The rubber seals on top and bottom of condenser are very 
>> important. So is taking the condenser off the firewall and cleaning 
>> all the leaves/junk out from behind it. Also blow through the 
>> condenser to clean the fins. And comb the fins where they usually get 
>> flattened.
>>
>> 9. If you run the compressor with the engine lid open, pressure will 
>> get too high and rupture a hose or worse. Note, this can cause 
>> blindness if refrigerant gets in your eyes.
>>
>> 10. Old seat of pants rule, if sight glass runs clear with compressor 
>> on, then bubbles form about 2-5 seconds after compressor cycles off, 
>> charge is fine.
>>
>> 11. If center outlet temperature is high, low pressure is high, and 
>> sight glass does not get bubbles after compressor shuts off, system 
>> is overcharged. Hopefully you never get that far.
>>
>>
>> Others may have different rules or observations...
>>
>> Frank DuVal
>>
>>
>>
>> On 8/17/2016 9:14 PM, Garry via VirtualVairs wrote:
>>> Hi all,
>>>
>>>
>>> Questions for all the A/C gurus out there. My 66 110hp/pg Monza with 
>>> factory A/C won't cool. The system was disconnected, but still 
>>> sealed, with pressure, for  few years, and I am slowly putting it 
>>> back together. Tonight was final recharge night. Pulled a successful 
>>> vacuum last night, which held, and added a charge, and got not 
>>> cooling, but it was too late to continue the diagnostics. I wanted 
>>> to finish charging tonight. The ambient temp is approx. 78 degrees, 
>>> and my static pressure was 80psi. I don't have a 66 service manual, 
>>> so I tried the numbers in the 65 manual. At approx. 2000 rpm, with 
>>> the deck lid closed, I get 20 on the low and 130 on the high. 
>>> Bumping just a few seconds of charge raised the numbers to 24/145. 
>>> Output temp is at 80 degrees, so nothing yet. If I increase the 
>>> pressure to about 40/200 the clutch begins to squeal. I see what 
>>> looks like white liquid, fairly solid in the sight glass (could be 
>>> bubbles?), but not sure exactly what pressure I should see at this 
>>> outside temp. I did find the two seals on the condenser are missing, 
>>> so I'll replace those tomorrow, and the deck lid seal is good, but 
>>> I'm sure there are probably some small leaks around the engine seal 
>>> - oh and the summer/winter plate is missing. Other than the obvious 
>>> things mentioned - any ideas? I've been out of the R-12 world for 
>>> way too many years.
>>>

-------------- next part --------------
A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
Name: AC Charging 66 small.jpg
Type: image/jpeg
Size: 109773 bytes
Desc: not available
URL: <http://www.vv.corvair.org/pipermail/virtualvairs/attachments/20160818/9a051891/attachment.jpg>