<VV> Bolted Flywheel clearance

[BobHelt at aol.com]

Colin,
Concerning the 12 bolts you refer to, there are several factors that might  
enter your decisions.
 
First is, what is the clamping torque you intend to use with these bolts.  
Are you using nuts on them?
 
Or are you threading them into the flywheel? 
 
Then there is the grade of the bolts. If grade 5 or 8, they would be much  
better than a lesser grade. With the higher grades you should have no 
problems  torquing nuts to 20 ft-lbs or so.
 
I have cut the heads of the Grade 8 bolts and used them several times with  
no problems.
 
I've never had a problem removing the inertia plate off.
 
I suggest balancing the flywheel, and then both the FW and the PP  together.
 
Bob Helt
 
 
 
In a message dated 7/29/2015 1:48:36 A.M. US Mountain Standard Time,  
virtualvairs at corvair.org writes:

I am  getting my 150 hp engine rebuilt. My engine builder has machined the 
heads of  the 12 outer flywheel bolts down so they clear the bellhousing 
bolts. Its neat  what he has done and clearance is not an issue now.
However, the literature  says the usual solution is to chuck the enertia 
plate  from the back of  the flywheel away and don't use washers on the bottom 
4 bellhousing bolts.  This effectively lightens the flywheel which would 
probably be good for  racing, but may be slightly adverse in regard to smooth 
gear changes in normal  road driving.
My car is only used for normal road use and is not raced so I  figure I am 
best to stick with the enertia plate as per original  setup.
Does anybody have any thoughts on these trade offs. Also, would the  
strength of the 12 outer flywheel bolts be compromised with the top half of  the 
heads machined off?
Colin LYNN
Perth, Western  Australia
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