<VV> Appreciate some help with poor idle, stalling

[jim bannister]

You can listen to the hiss at each carb through a rubber hose stuck in your
ear.
Jim

-----Original Message-----
From: VirtualVairs [mailto:virtualvairs-bounces at corvair.org] On Behalf Of
Dennis Pleau via VirtualVairs
Sent: Thursday, February 12, 2015 3:21 PM
To: 'Virtual Vairs'
Subject: Re: <VV> Appreciate some help with poor idle, stalling

The key is what you said about putting your hand over the carb.  They should
both suck the same amount.  You need to balance the carbs.  I don't know how
to do it without a 'Unisync' (sp), but there is a procedure in the shop
manual that will work.  Ifyou have access to a Unisync I cane post a
procedure.

Dennis

-----Original Message-----
From: VirtualVairs [mailto:virtualvairs-bounces at corvair.org] On Behalf Of
Bill H. via VirtualVairs
Sent: Wednesday, February 11, 2015 10:33 PM
To: virtualvairs at corvair.org
Subject: <VV> Appreciate some help with poor idle, stalling

                                                                 B"H Hi all:
I'm still having awful problems with my Monza when idling, especially in
Drive, where the idle is unsteady, rough, and the engine frequently stalls
unless I put her in Neutral.  She's a 66 Monza, 110, PG with factory A/C.
The idle tends to be uneven, sometimes she'll surge, then slow down.
So far, here's what I've done:
1.  New plugs, NGK, gapped to .0302.  Carbs, rebuilt 2012 by Grant Young3.
Fuel pressure, 3-5 lb to both carbs (best as I can determine, gauge crapped
out on me).  Stock fuel pump used, brand new.  Both carbs getting gas from
fuel lines.4.  Fuel tank drained, refilled with fresh gas, drygas and octane
booster.  Saved a bit of old gas in a jar, no water or impurities found5.
Compression test:  Engine warm, throttle at WOT per gauge instructions (all
plugs out, coil wire grounded):
    #1 - 133    #2 - 129    #3 - 155    #4 - 135    #5 - 121    #6 - 130
Cylinder #3 is a bit high, and #5 is a bit low.  However all are with I
think within acceptable range.
6.  At idle, in Neutral, when I put my hand over the throat of the left
carb, the suction is STRONG and the engine falters and stalls if I keep my
hand there.  Turning the idle mixture screw does have a minor affect on the
idle.
7.  With my hand over the right carb, the suction is WEAK and the engine
actually smooths out and the idle speed increases.  Turning the idle mixture
screw all the way in or out does nothing to change the idle.
8.  Removed both idle mixture screws, sprayed carb cleaner in the port,
replaced screws.  Tried revving the engine with my hand tightly over each
carb throat separately, with the hope that the surge of fuel might wash dirt
or debris from the idle circuit.  Didn't change idle at all.
9.  Carbs are tight, both on the intake manifold, and the air horns are
tightly screwed to the carbs.
10. Plug wires are in good shape, engine has Pertronix ignition system.
11.  Observed small amount of fuel dripping from venturi cluster of each
carb.  Clark's tech said this is normal as long as it's coming from the
venturi cluster and it's only a small amount.

I do appreciate your help guys, if anyone can think of what could be wrong.
As I might have mentioned already, I depend on this car for daily
transportation and it's not really driveable in slow, city traffic (although
on acceleration she seems to run OK).
Thank you!...Bill Hershkowitz



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