<VV> Thermistor Swap
Martin Thomas
banjo800 at bellsouth.net
Mon Sep 1 14:16:11 EDT 2014
A quick search on google will bring up a few articles where, at least in aircraft use, the use of an 82 Ohm Ceramic resistor made the gauge read correctly with the afore mentioned temp probe from Spruce. I believe the gauge was an AC unit. May or May not help.....
See this page for more info.
http://forums.aviationpros.com/showthread.php?1438-CHT-Probe
Sent from my iPad
> On Sep 1, 2014, at 12:00 PM, virtualvairs-request at corvair.org wrote:
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> Today's Topics:
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> 1. Re: Fc white stripe paint code (Frank DuVal)
> 2. Thermister Swap? (Allan V. Lacki)
> 3. List Guidelines - please read, it has answers (Bryan Blackwell)
> 4. Thermister Swap (RAMBLERPAT at aol.com)
> 5. Re: Fitch Engine - carb problems (J. R. Read)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2014 14:23:07 -0400
> From: Frank DuVal <corvairduval at cox.net>
> To: virtualvairs at corvair.org
> Subject: Re: <VV> Fc white stripe paint code
> Message-ID: <5403680B.6080805 at cox.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
>
> Well, that is wrong information from your local dealer. PPG was always
> really good at getting formulas for older vehicles. Sometimes the dealer
> had to ask the archive department at PPG for the formula, it was not in
> microfiche. Once in a while I would run into a PPG formula that had not
> been updated. Maybe you just asked about those few? PPG has chips and
> formulas in the old systems going back to 1928. Here is an example of
> 1928 Chevy in Ditz-Lac, the old Ditzler Lacquer name.
>
> http://www.autocolorlibrary.com/aclchip.aspx?image=1928-Chevrolet-pg01.jpg
>
> Also, for people not in the know, PPG's paint line was Ditzler for
> years. Somewhere they dropped the Ditzler name and just use PPG for the
> whole paint line. Omni is one of the products under the PPG banner.
>
> Frank DuVal
>
>> On 8/31/2014 1:25 AM, Steve Spilatro via VirtualVairs wrote:
>> Kent,
>> Thanks for the thorough explanation. I'd be interested to hear what other people's experiences have been. At my local auto paint shop I was frequently told that PPG did not have a formula for old paint codes.
>> Steve
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2014 17:18:01 -0500 (CDT)
> From: "Allan V. Lacki" <redbat01 at verizon.net>
> To: virtualvairs at corvair.org
> Subject: <VV> Thermister Swap?
> Message-ID: <3127084.1138516.1409523481268.JavaMail.root at vms170029>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8
>
> Frank DuVal is correct. The temperature curve for the Rochester 3080-38 thermistor does not match AC Delco Part 1513431, which is the unit used in Corvair Spyders and Corsas. But it is the same size as the AC Delco unit. The threaded portion of the Rochester thermistor body is 3/8 inches in diameter with a 24 pitch fine thread. This is the same diameter and thread as the stock AC Delco unit used in the Corvair. In fact, almost all of the dimensions of the Rochester 3080-38 thermistor match the AC Delco unit and the exceptions are of no consequence as far as fitment is concerned. Dick Weidner and I checked the dimensions by comparing the Rochester factory drawing to an actual AC Delco thermistor. Prices for the Rochester unit range from $80 to $150 apiece. You have to shop around for the best price. I should point out that this part is manufactured by Rochester Gauges of Dallas Texas, which is NOT the General Motors subsidiary that made Rochester carbs! Rochester of Dallas
> does not sell to the public, but instead, sells through selected jobbers such as Aircraft Spruce.
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 3
> Date: Mon, 1 Sep 2014 01:00:01 -0400 (EDT)
> From: bryan at skiblack.com (Bryan Blackwell)
> To: virtualvairs at skiblack.com
> Subject: <VV> List Guidelines - please read, it has answers
> Message-ID: <20140901050001.A7EAA378B8 at tiger.skiblack.com>
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> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 4
> Date: Mon, 1 Sep 2014 10:53:07 -0400 (EDT)
> From: RAMBLERPAT at aol.com
> To: virtualvairs at corvair.org
> Subject: <VV> Thermister Swap
> Message-ID: <5da54.79f46423.4135e253 at aol.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
>
> To all, I have been reading the feedback on the ROCHESTER 3080-38
> TEMPERATURE PROBE that I happened upon while trying to save a few dollars
> on the unfortunate shortage of affordable thermisters situation. It is true
> that the $300 - $400 needed to purchase an NOS AC thermister is
> prohibitive for many Corvair owners, and the $80 or so necessary for a used one is a
> risk as well. In addition, I well aware that this is the way it is in the
> old car business world and hobby. For theses reasons, and others, I was so
> excited when I discovered the new Rochester temp probe for $80 in the 2015
> Spruce Aircraft catalog and I recognized the possibilities that it
> represents.
>
> It appears that no one here knew of this so the Rochester 3080-38 is
> untested in a Corvair auto application as of today of course. However, the
> good news is that there is VV confirmation that this unit it is essentially
> the same dimensions including the thread size as the AC thermister.
> Perhaps, this is half the battle right there. It is also my understanding is that
> this thermister will work for us if we match it to a compatible gauge,
> after all it is designed to measure head temps in an air cooled engine. This
> discovery may help some of us save some dollars and give us an upgrade to
> more efficient and reliable equipment too. Though I have not researched any
> head temp gauges yet I am hopeful the someone out there will try this set up
> and let us know how it works, provide us with the costs, and let us know if
> it was worth the efforts.
>
> Patrick Laus
>
> 64 Spyder Coupe
> Metro Detroit area
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 5
> Date: Mon, 1 Sep 2014 10:46:45 -0500
> From: "J. R. Read" <hmlinc at sbcglobal.net>
> To: "Kenneth Schifftner" <scrubbr at ix.netcom.com>,
> <virtualvairs at corvair.org>
> Subject: Re: <VV> Fitch Engine - carb problems
> Message-ID: <59653946C82843039E6BE63FD598D0B8 at jrd5ed88692d59>
> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
> reply-type=original
>
> And that "something" is very likely still floating around in the carb - just
> waiting for a chance to cause the same problem all over again. The hand
> over the carb with the engine revved will generally get you going again
> along the roadside - so that you are running on 6 instead of 3 cylinders.
>
> You really need to refresh the carbs - maybe over the winter? A good kit is
> GP-Sorensen - part #96-116E. It includes a new accelerator pump with the
> cup pre-installed.
>
> Oh, that "something" in the carb... Likely part of a disintegrating
> accelerator pump cup OR from the rubber portions of the main fuel line from
> the tank OR possibly even a small piece of dirt that got past the air
> cleaner. Make sure the rubber portions of your main fuel line can stand up
> to our modern fuel formulations. The older rubber will not stand up to the
> ethanol laden gasoline.
>
> Later, JR
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Kenneth Schifftner via VirtualVairs" <virtualvairs at corvair.org>
> To: <virtualvairs at corvair.org>
> Sent: Sunday, August 31, 2014 4:56 AM
> Subject: <VV> Fitch Engine
>
>
>> Gang:
>>
>> I recently helped a club member get their 140 hp engine running...similar
>> symptoms as Michael described. The driver's side primary would not
>> respond to mixture adjustments or idle speed changes. I made sure the
>> secondaries were fully closed...they were. The engine was knocking and
>> rocking. The engine had recently been rebuilt but not the carburetors.
>>
>> The driver's side primary carburetor choke would not open....right side
>> OK. Thinking the choke needed adjustment, I tried to adjust the choke on
>> the driver's side to no avail. Then club member Steve Calandra said to
>> check the exhaust temp...cold on that side (engine has dual exhaust). I
>> removed the idle mixture screw completely. Noticed that when the engine
>> was running, there was no hiss at the idle mixture screw port. I tried to
>> spray carb cleaner into the port but the liquid shot back at me, even with
>> the engine running. I then held my hand over the carburetor inlet and
>> blipped the throttle....on about the 5th or 6th try....finally hiss. I
>> sprayed in more cleaner,,,,,this time the cleaner (mostly) went in. The
>> choke started to open...I then replaced the idle mixture screw and got
>> idle mixture control back as well as idle speed. As that suddenly heated,
>> the choke opened. I then balanced the primaries using the Dwyer gauge.
>> Smooth running engine. Something must have
>> blocked the idle mixture pathways in the carburetor.
>
>
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