<VV> Pre-testing 140 before running

[J. R. Read]

Drop some (an ounce or two?) marvel mystery oil down each plug hole and see 
if that changes the feel.

Later, JR

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Charlie via VirtualVairs" <virtualvairs at corvair.org>
To: "'MarK Durham'" <62vair at gmail.com>
Cc: <virtualvairs at corvair.org>
Sent: Saturday, May 31, 2014 11:30 AM
Subject: <VV> Pre-testing 140 before running


> I’ve probably “revved” the crank manually 10 or 20 times around at 
> different times, with little to moderate effort, but it feels “dry” as I 
> do it.
>
>
>
> The feeling that “dry” surfaces are moving against each other causes me 
> the concern that I want to allay  before installing it.
>
>
>
>
>
> Charlie
>
>
>
> From: MarK Durham [mailto:62vair at gmail.com]
> Sent: Friday, May 30, 2014 7:08 PM
> To: Charlie
> Cc: Frank DuVal; Virtual Vairs
> Subject: Re: <VV> Pre-testing 140 before running
>
>
>
> Charlie, if the engine was rebuilt with new rings, it will take a bit more 
> to pull it through. I always error to the conservative side, so barring 
> Smitty's comment, I would pull the distributer and simply turn the oil 
> pump with a long flat blade screwdriver until you get pressure, . Do this 
> five or six times, letting the engine set a minute or two in between, 
> then, you will know you have coated the bearings. I did this with my fresh 
> engine build, and after 6 times with a screwdriver I had oil dripping out 
> at the rocker arms, too.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Mark Durham
>
> Hauser, Idaho
>
> 62 Monza coupe Red/Red 4 speed
>
>
>
> On Fri, May 30, 2014 at 8:37 AM, Charlie via VirtualVairs 
> <virtualvairs at corvair.org> wrote:
>
> Thanks ~
>
> Since it was sitting a while, I added Mystery Oil + a bit of 10w30 to each
> plug hole to let it seep in before turning it.
>
> Without measuring the torque needed, it turns fairly easily with little
> effort, but doesn't feel "smooth" (it is reputed to have been rebuilt 
> before
> sitting for about a year in SoCal single-digit humidity, so that's better
> than north east levels!
>
> The real test is when I put the starter on it, but I want to make sure 
> there
> are no friction drag due to even minimal internal surface rust.
>
> So, I'll use the starter sparingly until I feel OK with it.
>
> Should I spin the oil pump before I run the starter, just to get the 
> juices
> flowing?
>
> Charlie
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: VirtualVairs [mailto:virtualvairs-bounces at corvair.org] On Behalf Of
> corvairduval--- via VirtualVairs
> Sent: Friday, May 30, 2014 7:33 AM
> To: virtualvairs at corvair.org
> Subject: Re: <VV> Torque needed to turn 140 without plugs to test it out 
> of
> car?
>
> 5 to 10 foot pounds? Without plugs there is no compression to overcome, 
> just
> valve spring tension, so it should turn easily.
>
> Sometimes rust does form in the cylinders (always here in the east!). So 
> the
> first attempt may take some extra effort. Spray your favorite rust
> penetrant/lube into all three spark plug holes before you try to turn it.
> Dragging unlubricated rings along the cylinders is not the best course of
> action.
>
> Frank DuVal
>
> Original email:
> -----------------
> From: Charlie chaz at properproper.com
> Date: Fri, 30 May 2014 06:55:51 -0700
> To: shortle556 at earthlink.net, hmlinc at sbcglobal.net, corvairduval at cox.net,
> virtualvairs at corvair.org
> Subject: Torque needed to turn 140 without plugs to test it out of car?
>
>
> I'm want to test the 140 out of car before installing it, to make sure 
> it'll
> work first.
>
> What kind of torque is needed to turn a 140 without plugs, just to turn 
> it,
> to see if it's "free-turning" enough to put it together, and into the car?
>
> Charlie
>
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