<VV> Pre-testing 140 before running

Fri May 30 23:31:27 EDT 2014

Good point ~

This 140 is a "fresh" engine that was just rebuilt and has zero time  since rebuilding, hence pre-testing it before installing it.

Just got back from Cal Corvair where I bought shift tube, pedal assembly and flywheel bolts and ring.

Cal Corvair is about 60 miles from here, so beside a 60-mile tow to get it there, what would it cost to get it installed and running, out of curiosity?  So far, I have about $800 in this (not counting $200 for the car), for the 140, 4-speed trans and today's parts), so seriously, what would it cost to have someone else have all the fun (and with me no less learned)?

Isn't the fun in doing it, and not just paying someone to do it?  
Of course, I'd be annoying you guys a  LOT less with my incessant questions!

I remember a book I read a while back (CQ or Corsa's monthly CC) by a Corvair guy who told us how to restore a Corvair, which was basically a list of "Find an engine guy" then "Find an interior shop" and then "Find a body shop" which I thought was hilarious, except he was serious.

Sure, the fun is driving the finished car, but I've had a great time digging into this car, and learning from all the tutorials you guys provided!  Eventually (and hopefully), I hope to have the pride of having done it myself, although if there were a Corvair guy nearby, I'd be glad to have some help, to share the fun (plus pay for his ~ or her ~ help)

I have a bit of an extension, so I have to decide between Plan A, B, C(build a garage around the car), D (buy a place with a garage) pretty quickly.

Thanks for all the insights~
Charlie

-----Original
Message-----
From: shortle [mailto:shortle556 at earthlink.net] 
Sent: Friday, May 30, 2014 9:00 AM
To: Charlie; corvairduval at cox.net
Cc: virtualvairs at corvair.org
Subject: Re: <VV> Pre-testing 140 before running

Are we talking about a "rebuilt" engine that has already been run before you got ahold of it? Or are we talking a "fresh" engine that was just rebuilt and has zero time  since rebuilding? You are into this thought process too deep Charlie. There is an old saying "Nothing to it but to do it". You are spending more time at your computer than if you were just to do this job. Hire a shop or mechanic to do this for you. Calif Corvairs is close to you.
Timothy Shortle in Durango Colorado 81301 Heading out the door to go to Chama right now 

-----Original Message-----
>From: Charlie via VirtualVairs <virtualvairs at corvair.org>
>Sent: May 30, 2014 9:37 AM
>To: corvairduval at cox.net
>Cc: virtualvairs at corvair.org
>Subject: <VV> Pre-testing 140 before running
>
>Thanks ~
>
>Since it was sitting a while, I added Mystery Oil + a bit of 10w30 to 
>each plug hole to let it seep in before turning it.
>
>Without measuring the torque needed, it turns fairly easily with little 
>effort, but doesn't feel "smooth" (it is reputed to have been rebuilt 
>before sitting for about a year in SoCal single-digit humidity, so 
>that's better than north east levels!
>
>The real test is when I put the starter on it, but I want to make sure 
>there are no friction drag due to even minimal internal surface rust.
>
>So, I'll use the starter sparingly until I feel OK with it.
>
>Should I spin the oil pump before I run the starter, just to get the 
>juices flowing?
>
>Charlie
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: VirtualVairs [mailto:virtualvairs-bounces at corvair.org] On Behalf 
>Of
>corvairduval--- via VirtualVairs
>Sent: Friday, May 30, 2014 7:33 AM
>To: virtualvairs at corvair.org
>Subject: Re: <VV> Torque needed to turn 140 without plugs to test it 
>out of car?
>
>5 to 10 foot pounds? Without plugs there is no compression to overcome, 
>just valve spring tension, so it should turn easily.
>
>Sometimes rust does form in the cylinders (always here in the east!). 
>So the first attempt may take some extra effort. Spray your favorite 
>rust penetrant/lube into all three spark plug holes before you try to turn it.
>Dragging unlubricated rings along the cylinders is not the best course 
>of action.
>
>Frank DuVal
>
>Original email:
>-----------------
>From: Charlie chaz at properproper.com
>Date: Fri, 30 May 2014 06:55:51 -0700
>To: shortle556 at earthlink.net, hmlinc at sbcglobal.net, 
>corvairduval at cox.net, virtualvairs at corvair.org
>Subject: Torque needed to turn 140 without plugs to test it out of car?
>
>
>I'm want to test the 140 out of car before installing it, to make sure 
>it'll work first.
>
>What kind of torque is needed to turn a 140 without plugs, just to turn 
>it, to see if it's "free-turning" enough to put it together, and into the car?
>
>Charlie
>
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