<VV> Problem : What size are the bolts to use a crank pulley puller?

Mon Jun 2 21:36:22 EDT 2014

Right size is 3/8" coarse. Try chasing the pulley threads first.

Daniel

On 02/06/14 13:54, "Charlie via VirtualVairs" <virtualvairs at corvair.org>
wrote:

>What size are the bolts to remove the crank pulley?
>
> 
>
>My pulley puller has several sized bolts to fit almost anything, but none
>of them fit the pre-drilled holes in the pulley for that purpose!
>
> 
>
>I¹ve tried 5/16 coarse which is too small.
>
> 
>
>Then I tried 3/8 coarse which is too big.
>
> 
>
>So the only sizes between these 2 are 3/8 fine (3/8-24) and M10 1.0
>
> 
>
>I bought some of both but they¹re both too big :<{
>
> 
>
>All of the available bolts bind.
>
> 
>
>The holes do not look rusty, but I¹ll try tapping them anyway.
>
> 
>
>I don¹t think the pulley has been replaced with an off-sized version so
>what other size could it be?
>
> 
>
>Charlie
>
> 
>
>From: MarK Durham [mailto:62vair at gmail.com]
>Sent: Sunday, June 01, 2014 12:44 PM
>To: Charlie
>Cc: virtualvairs at corvair.org
>Subject: Re: Pre-testing 140 before running
>
> 
>
>Charlie, the dry feeling might be nothing more than new rings sliding on
>new cross hatched cylinder walls. Just make sure the bearings are oiled
>as previously spoken about then pull it through with some engine oil in
>the spark plug holes to lube the cylinders then put in plugs and start it.
>
>Mark Durham Hauser Idaho
>62 2Door Coupe 4speed Red/Red
>
>On May 31, 2014 9:31 AM, "Charlie" <chaz at properproper.com> wrote:
>
>I¹ve probably ³revved² the crank manually 10 or 20 times around at
>different times, with little to moderate effort, but it feels ³dry² as I
>do it.
>
> 
>
>The feeling that ³dry² surfaces are moving against each other causes me
>the concern that I want to allay  before installing it.
>
> 
>
> 
>
>Charlie
>
> 
>
>From: MarK Durham [mailto:62vair at gmail.com]
>Sent: Friday, May 30, 2014 7:08 PM
>To: Charlie
>Cc: Frank DuVal; Virtual Vairs
>Subject: Re: <VV> Pre-testing 140 before running
>
> 
>
>Charlie, if the engine was rebuilt with new rings, it will take a bit
>more to pull it through. I always error to the conservative side, so
>barring Smitty's comment, I would pull the distributer and simply turn
>the oil pump with a long flat blade screwdriver until you get pressure, .
>Do this five or six times, letting the engine set a minute or two in
>between, then, you will know you have coated the bearings. I did this
>with my fresh engine build, and after 6 times with a screwdriver I had
>oil dripping out at the rocker arms, too.
>
> 
>
> 
>
>
>
>
>Mark Durham
>
>Hauser, Idaho
>
>62 Monza coupe Red/Red 4 speed
>
> 
>
>On Fri, May 30, 2014 at 8:37 AM, Charlie via VirtualVairs
><virtualvairs at corvair.org> wrote:
>
>Thanks ~
>
>Since it was sitting a while, I added Mystery Oil + a bit of 10w30 to each
>plug hole to let it seep in before turning it.
>
>Without measuring the torque needed, it turns fairly easily with little
>effort, but doesn't feel "smooth" (it is reputed to have been rebuilt
>before
>sitting for about a year in SoCal single-digit humidity, so that's better
>than north east levels!
>
>The real test is when I put the starter on it, but I want to make sure
>there
>are no friction drag due to even minimal internal surface rust.
>
>So, I'll use the starter sparingly until I feel OK with it.
>
>Should I spin the oil pump before I run the starter, just to get the
>juices
>flowing?
>
>Charlie
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: VirtualVairs [mailto:virtualvairs-bounces at corvair.org] On Behalf Of
>corvairduval--- via VirtualVairs
>Sent: Friday, May 30, 2014 7:33 AM
>To: virtualvairs at corvair.org
>Subject: Re: <VV> Torque needed to turn 140 without plugs to test it out
>of
>car?
>
>5 to 10 foot pounds? Without plugs there is no compression to overcome,
>just
>valve spring tension, so it should turn easily.
>
>Sometimes rust does form in the cylinders (always here in the east!). So
>the
>first attempt may take some extra effort. Spray your favorite rust
>penetrant/lube into all three spark plug holes before you try to turn it.
>Dragging unlubricated rings along the cylinders is not the best course of
>action.
>
>Frank DuVal
>
>Original email:
>-----------------
>From: Charlie chaz at properproper.com
>Date: Fri, 30 May 2014 06:55:51 -0700
>To: shortle556 at earthlink.net, hmlinc at sbcglobal.net, corvairduval at cox.net,
>virtualvairs at corvair.org
>Subject: Torque needed to turn 140 without plugs to test it out of car?
>
>
>I'm want to test the 140 out of car before installing it, to make sure
>it'll
>work first.
>
>What kind of torque is needed to turn a 140 without plugs, just to turn
>it,
>to see if it's "free-turning" enough to put it together, and into the car?
>
>Charlie
>
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