<VV> Air? Chassis rot?

[kenpepke at juno.com]

On Jan 2, 2014, at 3:53 AM, Jay Maechtlen <jaysplace at laserpubs.com> wrote:

> Seems to me, all the force on the steering box is from the effort 
> applied to the steering wheel.

While the steering wheel is the primary input, resistance from the tires on the ground has a definite effect.  Try jacking the vehicle up so the front tires are off the ground and see if you can tell the difference.


> Unless the OP has the arms of a blacksmith, the frame where the steering 
> box mounts should be able to hold it steady.
> 
> The steering arms don't matter, neither does the tire size or pressure.

The length of the steering arm (lever) makes a big difference … the shorter the lever the more input force required.



> You should be able to crank on the steering wheel with the tires locked 
> stationary, and the steering box shouldn't move.

My ex-wife was fond of doing that … Between the over sized tires and the power steering, she was able to bend the steering out of alignment on her 3/4 ton GMC Suburban on quite a regular basis.



> 
> FWIW, a slow steering box gives the driver more mechanical advantage, so 
> for the same steering wheel effort should put more force on the frame.
> A quick box is harder on the driver, but easier on the frame.
> 
> Gotta check the frame and the mounting bolts. Something there is bad.
> 
> cheers
> Jay

The real key to reduce steering effort is in the tire 'scrub radius.'  By setting this dimension at 1 1/4 inches, my Late Model 'Stock' racing car (10 inch wide tread width with an effective width of 12 inches) required considerably less effort at racing speeds than my lady friend's 2013 Ford Edge at low speed on a curvy road.  Powered by a BB Chevy and at a required weight of 3200# that car did not require much more effort that a 60s GM car with real power steering or a new Corvair.

Ken P
Wyandotte, MI
65 Monza 110hp 4 speed 2 door
Worry looks around; Sorry looks back, Faith looks up.