<VV> Anti seize on spark plugs, wheel studs and other disputed methods

[corvairduval at cox.net]

I'm not missing the heat transfer reason. Do any one have a lab test to
prove that the metal (copper, nickle, or aluminum) based antiseize actually
hinders thermal movement? I'm thinking it actually helps, as it fills the
voids in the threads between the head and plug. I use silicone transfer
agents in electronics all the time, but they can not contain metal, as they
need to be non-conductive electrically (good trick, thermal conductivity
without electrical conductivity).

I'll get all my transgressions out at once:

I use antiseize on all spark plugs. I like to get them out after the car is
driven on our salty environment.

I use antiseize or grease on wheel studs, again I like to change tires
without breaking studs.

I don't use a torque wrench on spark plugs. Nor do I apply full arm force.
Been changing them in lawn mowers for over 50 years! Obviously as a child I
did not use antiseize...

The only wheel I ever had come off a car was one that I never tightened the
lugs on (that brought on new shop operating procedures!).

The only spark plugs that require excessive force to remove were ones I
didn't install first.

Never had a plug blow out from not having been tightened enough.

Plugs I have removed after use look fine on the insulator, therefore they
are conducting heat to the head as they should.

Above is 30 years of results from my own, friends, and customer cars I have
worked on.

Flame suit on, because I don't care. It works for me so I will not change
my ways!

YMMV

Frank DuVal

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