<VV> Antiseize on plugs update

[djtcz at comcast.net]

Hi Grant, 


Thanks for the info. 
Certainly the first place I look for info is the OEM manuals, and consider those specs as near gospel until proven otherwise. 

I understand instructions must be thorough and target the lowest common denominator, but I think the application of antiseize that would risk plug contamination would look something like this - 
http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-aAwdxRVkpWM/USuoABN7n_I/AAAAAAAAIrA/5kb9QDCJL0U/s1600/clam+dip+on+celery+2.jpg 

The only plug bodies I ever broke were on a former landscaper's GMC plow truck whose powerful ignition kept the replacement targetmaster engine running great so the plugs had probably never been changed through many MANY salty new England plow for hire seasons. The taper seat spark plug bodies had secretly rusted quite thin, so the first symptom was one plug spit out it's guts. Attempts to Remove the survivors resulted in mostly snapped bodies. The remaining threaded portions needed oxyacetylene warming to remove, so I believe they were rusted in place too. 
I do believe anti-seize would have reduced the thread seizing. 


With today's 50 kmile plus plug life I think the modern plug plating is a necessity to try to prevent problems. 


Many plug manufacturers list angle tightening specs when using new or used plug washers. If I was scared my use of a light swipe of antiseize, or a few drops of graphite lock fluid, or a drop of engine oil (recommended by Volvo for aluminum head 240s) off the dipstick would risk overtightening I would use the angle spec. 1/2 to 3/4 turn with new gasket 


Dan T - 01886 

----- Original Message -----

From: Grant Young < gyoungwolf at earthlink.net > 
Subject: <VV> Antiseize on plugs update 


Since I work on a few cars for friends now and then, I subscribe to the Motor trade journal. A recent editorial and responses and research on whether to use antiseize with spark plugs in aluminum heads got my attention, so I thought I would share. The crux of the writings is that most manufacturers don't mention it or say not to use it because all of the newer manufactured plugs now have a coating (nickel or zinc-chromate, for example) on their threads. There are a few new car manuals that suggest using only half recommended torque if any kind of antiseize or lubricant is used to avoid breaking a plug while installing or later removing. There is also information from plug manufacturers explaining that getting the material on the electrode can cause plug fouling and failure. NKG and Autolite (except for one specific long reach plug in a 3-valve Ford engine) say never use antiseize on their plugs. So, what I gleaned from the information that could pertain to Corvairs is that if
  
you use an old (pre-80's?) plug that you can use anti-sieze if you reduce the torque value significantly, and that you should not use it if using a modern plug, and that checking the plug manufacturers' recommendation is very important, regardless. 
The Carbmeister