<VV> Bad paint product warning (A Suggestion)

[RoboMan91324 at aol.com]

Grant and all,
 
This topic has garnered more interest than I expected both on  VV as well 
as much direct email contact.
 
While discussing quality control, etc. with another VV member  off list, 
something popped into my alleged mind as a possible solution to your  problem. 
 It is simple and possibly even obvious but sometimes the obvious  escapes 
us.
 
You say that the bronze color paint is lighter than before,  clogs easily 
and when it sprays, it comes out in a rough texture.  These  are all 
indications that the solids in the liquid are not truly  homogenous.  Perhaps the 
particulate matter in the "Series 1" product was  easier to disperse and you 
got used to giving it a shake of short  duration.  The "Series 2" product may 
need you to shake the devil out of it  to get good results.  If you haven't 
thrown the can out, giving it another  shake might be worth a try.
 
Just a thought.
 
Doc
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
 
In a message dated 7/12/2013 9:02:01 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
virtualvairs-request at corvair.org writes:

Message:  3
Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2013 08:48:20 -0400 (GMT-04:00)
From: Grant Young  <gyoungwolf at earthlink.net>
Subject: <VV> Bad paint product  warning
To: "virtualvairs at corvair.org"  <virtualvairs at corvair.org>
Message-ID:
<31855409.1373633300791.JavaMail.root at wamui-june.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
Content-Type:  text/plain; charset=UTF-8

I thought I would share a recent experience  with a bad product to possibly 
save some of you some money and grief. I have  been using Eastwoods' 
carburetor paint for over 10 years with good results. I  have to do some special 
things to make it work and look right and improve its  longevity, but it has 
been of consistent quality and gave pretty good results.  Recently, however, 
they started supplying an "improved" series II product,  that has turned 
out to be "junk" to put it in technical jargon. Their aluminum  paint is gray 
now. When I explained this to them, the response I got was that  it "looks 
correct from ten feet away". This was not a killer issue as I was  able to 
find a good aluminum colored engine paint substitute at the LAPS. The  bigger 
problem is their bronze or gold color for the tops. While the color is  
still okay (a little lighter than the old stuff), I have not been able to get  
it to spray more than 2-3 seconds without plugging. After much frustrating  
research, I have 
determined that it is a problem with the solids in the  paint. It is not 
the nozzle that plugs, but the area in the can where the  nozzle pushes it 
down to allow the paint to exit. When I have been lucky  enough to get 5-10 
seconds of spray by cleaning and re-cleaning, it starts  coming out in particle 
form, leaving a rough, sandpaper-like finish. They do  not a have a 
solution, other than a replacement with the same or a refund. I  am now having to 
send all my carb tops out for re-plating with the dichromate  finish, as I 
have not been able to find an acceptable substitute on the  market. So, in 
short, I suggest you don't waste you time and money (the stuff  is ridiculously 
expensive) with the Eastwoods carb paint.
The  Carbmeister