<VV> Engine Install hints

[Frank DuVal]

That's right, set the bottle jack on the differential cover and this 
will jack the diff downward to the rear (sometimes a block of wood is 
needed, as only a small jack will fit). If the car is up on jack stands 
so the rear of the car is in the air, this allows the transaxle to be 
more level with the ground, so sliding the engine on a jack on the floor 
(which by definition is parallel to the floor) will engage the 
differential at about the same angle, well at least that is the goal!

This even helps PG cars do engine swaps, engine only.

Yes, earlies are always remove the whole drivetrain. Waaaay easier.

Here in the rusty east there are too many strut rods* that snap off 
while removing them to bother with entire drivetrain removal on lates.

Taking the shift coupler pin out helps, but I usually forget.

Those long bolts with heads removed are very nice.

And for those new to the game, remember to cut slots on the bolt end 
(not the head end) of the bolts holding the differential to the 
belhousing. This alows a slotted screwdriver to spin those bolts home 
instead of turning them 1/6 of a rotation with each wrench motion. This 
applies to the two bolts at 3 and 9 o'clock. You can slot them all if 
you wish, then it doesn't matter which hole they go in. This is for 
manual and PG cars.

Frank DuVal

* This is both the two smaller rods next to the transmission and the 
bolts holding the large rods at the differential., the outer cam 
adjusters always (well better than 50% of the time) break here.

On 12/4/2013 8:51 PM, Bil & Chris Strickland wrote:
> Yes, Mark, I too like to do the entire drive train all bolted up on
> earlies, but on lates, it is a bit more of a crap shoot -- NOTICE: Frank
> said put the bottle jack on "top" of the diffy, jacking the transaxle
> down, away from the body -- I've never tied it this way, but I do see
> how that could work on a late (I have owned a couple Corsas over the
> years ... )
>
> Bill Strickland