<VV> NO SPARK AT COIL - WEEKEND UPDATE...

[Rods Gmail]

Hey Dave,

Ds u get my recent email and phone call re thoughts from local mechanic to trace wiring and possible junctions at/near tach?  

Rod's iPad

On Jun 25, 2012, at 9:47 PM, "Dave Thompson" <dave.thompson at verizon.net> wrote:

> Minor correction to Rod’s notes…..
> The “negative coil wire”  is the #20 brown tach wire. Charging voltage should be around 14 volts.
>  
> Rod,
> If you swapped the alternators and still have no charging, Un-tape the alternator harness all the way to the positive terminal post on the frame rail by the battery (HRPT, Horrible Red Plastic Thingie). Check if there are any broken splices when it was upgraded to an internally regulated alternator.
>  
> The large wire attached to the “BAT” bolt on the alternator goes to the HRPT. It is the charge wire.
>  
> The #2 wire (typically red) on the alternator plug also goes to the HRPT. It is the “sense” wire. It tells the voltage regulator what the system voltage is verses the charge voltage. Some people run it to the “BAT” post on the alternator but I like them to go to the HRPT. You get a better reading of the system voltage there.
>  
> The #1 wire (typically white) on the alternator plug goes to the dash light. The dash light has battery on one side and the alternator wire on the other. When both show the same reading, there is no current flow, thus no light. If there is a difference, such as a low battery and a fully charging alternator, the light lights. OR, a good battery and no charging.
>  
> Fix one thing at a time, leave the tach wire off and get the alternator working first.
>  
> Keep us posted…..
> Dave
>  
> From: rod murray [mailto:rmurray8996 at gmail.com] 
> Sent: Monday, June 25, 2012 9:41 AM
> To: Dave Thompson
> Cc: CORVAIR; Roger Becker; John Sweet; Mike Fiscus
> Subject: NO SPARK AT COIL - WEEKEND UPDATE...
>  
> the good news...the car is running!!!!!  big props to dave for getting me to this point...however, i'm not out of the woods yet....
> 
> the bad news...
> 1)  trouble-shooting has isolated part of the problem at the negative wire to the coil.  for some reason, it is acting as a "kill" wire...ie, the car starts/runs only when this wire is removed from the coil.  
> 2)  when above wire is removed from coil, engine runs but the "gen" light is on, and the battery does not show any increase in voltage (per dave, V at battery should be up closer to 15V while running to indicate battery is charging).  i swapped out a fresh alternator from the rebuilt van engine thinking this could be an internal voltage regulator issue, but showed no change.
> 
> at this point, original flamethrower II coil and pertronix e-points are both re-installed, replacement e-fuel pump is pumping, coil ground wire is disconnected, engine runs, gen light is on, and battery shows 12V whether ignition is on or off...
> 
> next up is to trace the ground wire "kill" and gen light issues...any suggestions?   
> 
> thx all! and especially you dave!
> 
> - rod
> 
> 
> 
> On Sun, May 20, 2012 at 8:43 AM, rod murray <rmurray8996 at gmail.com> wrote:
> Thx for responses so far...I believe the problem is electrical....pump appears to be working as  a) I can hear it, and b) gas is visibly jetting into the carbs when I move the throttle...thinking coil is next stop since I saw no spark when I pulled the center distributor wire (from coil).  Should i be trying a plug wire instead?  I do have another coil I could put on to try, but figure I should test for power first.    What's best way to test power at the coil and backtrack from there?
> 
> Btw, Power to replacement pump is same as previous setup and had no issues - have to admit idont recall the source of power for the pump - i just re-used the same wire as before (pump is a full-time op, i removed the mechanical pump long ago).  pump is located in front frame rail area behind tank where fuel line exits tank - hot wire is a light- colored wire pulled from inside the covered underside center that runs front to back.   
> 
> Hoping to get this resolved today...
> 
> Thx again...
> 
> Rod  
> 
> 
> On Sunday, May 20, 2012, Dave Thompson <dave.thompson at verizon.net> wrote:
> > Rod,
> >
> > My first thought is that the pump is defective.
> >
> > Disconnect the output (engine end) of the pump, at the pump. Put a suitable catch container there and run the pump. You should get a good stream of gas out of the pump.
> >
> > If all tests OK, Reconnect the pump.
> >
> > Disconnect the fuel line from the tank at the engine. Put an extension hose on it dropped into a suitable container and test the pump again. This is to verify that the body fuel line is not clogged.
> >
> > If all tests OK,
> >
> > While cranking, Carefully remove one plug wire from the distributor cap. Hold it close to the terminal and see if it sparks. If not, Check for power at the + of the coil.
> >
> > Do you have an electronic ignition system? If so, verify that the gap is correct between the control unit and the “ring” on the distributor cam shaft. If all is good but still no spark, change out to points. I returned MANY defective Pertronix electronic ignition systems.
> >
> > If you are running points, check that the dwell is correct. I had a cheap set of points wear the rubbing block down one time.
> >
> > I learned to use my dwell meter and run points on both my Corvairs now.
> >
> >  
> >
> > Keep us posted,
> >
> >  
> >
> > Dave Thompson
> >
> >  
> >
> > From: rod murray [mailto:rmurray8996 at gmail.com]
> > Sent: Saturday, May 19, 2012 5:57 PM
> > To: CORVAIR
> > Cc: Roger Becker; John Sweet; Dave Thompson; Mike Fiscus; marty24 at comcast.net
> > Subject: Engine start troubleshooting help
> >
> >  
> >
> > Following a recent vapor lock incident, i set after swapping electric fuel pumps today...here's general sequence...
> > - drove the car to fixit location, put front wheels up on wheel ramps...note car started fine as always...
> > - pulled pos cable from battery
> > - replaced pump...triple-checked for proper install
> > - reconnected battery cable
> > - put some gas in the carbs to help get it started
> > - tried to start, heard the pump, but no crank...headlights dim, and practically gone when I tried starting (did that to check batt status)...hmmm, dead battery?  How did that happen?
> > - checked carbs, confirmed jets are shooting gas...good there.  
> > - charged battery, retried starting...cranking fine again, but still won't start...
> > - I checked for spark from coil to distributor...nothing...
> > - i checked the infamous engine death wire connection on drivers side of engine compartment....checked for spark again, still nothing...
> >
> > What else should I check?  Did i kill the coil somehow?  Is there an inline fuse somewhere that could be involved?  This must be something simple (that i did) since it started up fine this at beginning of this sequence...
> >
> > Suggestions appreciated...thx
> >
> > -rod
> > WPCC
> > '66 monza 140 convt...needs some backroads top down lovin'!
> >
> > --
> > Rod
> > "Reloaded in da 'burgh"
> > 412-719-3449
> 
> -- 
> Rod
> "Reloaded in da 'burgh"
> 412-719-3449
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> Rod
> "Reloaded in da 'burgh"
> 412-719-3449