<VV> my take on 4 CARBS ON SMALL INTAKE VALVE HEADS

[N2VZD at aol.com]

There is a lot to stuffing extra carbs on small valve heads. The low end  
pull is really better than 140 heads. ask a GOOD motor head the theory of 
motor  flow/ breathing. Better yet , try it. I have done a few since reading 
the  reports in how to hotrod , and other magazines back in the 60's.
My best ones so far use stock flanges on 110hp motors , with stock fuel  
lines , stock choke linkages , and modified linkage. I use stock primary late  
carbs with enrichment on primary's , and 62 or 63 for secondary (without 
the  bottom idle vent , or plug vent on 64's) to do without the powervalve. I 
also  put a stronger spring under a clipped accel pump on secondary's. This 
takes care  of stumble if you nail it. Yes i know there are other ways , but 
this works ,  this is relatively simple to do for street. I remove the 
choke plates etc on  secondary's and clean up the throats.  I also was careful 
on tune up , and  i use electronic ignition (not pertronics) , and 140 dual 
exhaust manifolds  etc.
This is not theroy , I have done it more than once.
The kit works well for racers , turns carbs 90 degrees , and adds @ 1  inch 
to intake  manifold height (no good for FC's , but good for precision  tune)
 but I did not like some of the linkage quirks to iron out.
This same theory applies to small block chevys , there is a big difference  
between heads with 194 intakes and 202 intake valves...especially with a  
powerglide car. It is a study of engineering..
For me , It boils down to doing things that work , can be done with minimal 
 expense at home.
To many magazine articles give you good ideas , but a lot are beyond the  
average guys budget etc..
Regards , Tim Colson , NOT an engineer , but a doer.
PS: I have an extra set of the kit  carb mount  castings here to  sell, 
along with instructions and measurements for the rest of the parts.