<VV> Front Disk Brakes

[Sethracer at aol.com]

In a message dated 2/18/2012 11:38:02 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,  
hihal6 at gmail.com writes:

Could  someone share a scan of the parts list and instructions for the
Scarebird  front disks kit? Scarebird's web site has 65-69 Corvair in their
index, but  nothing comes up when information and instructions  are
requested.

Thanks, Wade Halsey
 
Hi, Wade - I have used the Scarebird brackets. I have them on my race car.  
I made a few mods and you might or might not want to do this. There are two 
 different front spindles on the late Corvair, the difference is the size 
and  thread of the upper bolt. On the original drum brakes, that is the 
center post  (pivot pin) that the top of the shoes are held against, their 
resting  point. The hole for the upper mounting point of the Scarebird bracket 
does not  match either of the two bolt sizes needed to retain the bracket. At 
least for my  install, the hole in the bracket was too big. In addition, the 
area in the  spindle under the bracket is counter-bored a ways down to 
better locate the  original pivot pin, since that is the place that all braking 
load enters the  spindle. I made a couple of small inserts to press into the 
counter-bores  to remove the play and present a shoulder to the Scarebird 
bracket. It might not  matter on a street car, but it seemed a bit of a 
loose-fit for racing. On my  car, I ordered a pair of the Stainless Steel Brake 
Corp twin-piston "Metric"  replacement Calipers. The Scarebird brackets are 
designed to match  the GM Metric style. There are lots of sources for these GM 
Metric  size calipers, both racing style and street style. The rotor to be  
used with these is the S10 4WD rotor 1" thick and 10.5" diameter. In order 
to  install that rotor, you will have to make two mods to the stock front 
hubs. The  small shoulder that locates the stock drum, usually allowing itself 
to rust  solid (!) must be removed, Just trim the little shoulder down to 
the same  diameter as the other machined portion. The rotor is a tight fit at 
the  center hole, and may, depending on the rotor's countersink, hang on 
the drum  centering shoulder. And you will be machining the hub anyway, 
because the OD of  the hub it just slightly too bug to allow the rotor to drop 
over it. Just  measure the inside of the rotor and cut the hub OD enough to 
drop on. I bought  Baer Decelarotor discs, which are both slotted and drilled, 
because they were on  sale at the time. There are special fittings available 
to convert the end of  your hard lines (an SAE inverted flare) and present 
a AN 37 degree male to  allow a stainless steel braided hose assembly to the 
banjo fitting on  the caliper. My calipers came with the bolt and the seals 
for the banjo fitting,  but not the fitting itself. I mounted my calipers 
to the rear of the  spindles.  I use the same calipers and rotors on the back 
of the car as  well. If you need a photo or two, let me know.
 
Seth Emerson