<VV> engine removal

[Matt Nall]

Got it out real easy with a helper, thanks. I just wasnt real sure from memory 
how much clearance it takes. Clutch was getting wet from oil and had no option 
but to take it all apart. Could easily see where the bellhousing gasket was 
leaking and also the crank seal was tough and moved about freely on crank. New 
gasket and seal should correct oil leaks. The bellhousing bolts were`nt torqued  
tight at all, if any. The crank seal was the type with metel outer dia. with 
just a small blue sealer around flange. Dont know if this is the stock one but 
the replacement looks like it will seal much better. Have one question though. 
Should the 9 bellhousing bolts have a little sealer on them to stop oil? Also 
the flywheel bolts? I like it when you can at least see where the problem was. 
Makes you feel more sure of your labors. Sure wish it would go in as easy as it 
came out.
Pete Inman
61 Rampside
65 Monza

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 1... the Crank seal goes in from behind the bellhousing!  Determine which of the 2 types of bellhousings you have!


The difference is in the location of the crankshaft seal. The 164 crankshaft is shorter so the crankshaft seal is .050" closer to the engine block.

EM bellhousing works with a spacer. I don't know about crankshaft sealing going in the other direction.

Identification: Look in the hourglass-shaped area that faces the engine. An EM bellhousing will have a silver-dollar sized depression in the camshaft area. An LM bellhousing will be smooth across that area.

Craig N. Coeur d'Alene ID.












2... sealer won't hurt!   same on flywheel bolts!  The go all the way thru the flange.


3...   Remember... bottom / outer  bolts  do not get washers!... flywheel clearance


Matt Nall
Charleston, Oregon
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