<VV> Problems with a 140 tear down

Tony Underwood tony.underwood at cox.net
Thu Sep 8 00:20:24 EDT 2011


At 05:57 PM 9/2/2011, Bob Gilbert wrote:
>The current plan is to cut the con rods, remove the cylinder barrel sets and
>, if I can , save the case, and the (hopefully) nitrided crankshaft.
>Regards,
>Bob
>PS I have a second motor on its way.
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: virtualvairs-bounces at corvair.org
>[mailto:virtualvairs-bounces at corvair.org] On Behalf Of Chris & Bill
>Strickland
>Sent: September-02-11 1:49 PM
>To: virtualvairs at corvair.org
>Subject: Re: <VV> Problems with a 140 tear down
>
>
> >The problem is the crank won't move and the pistons are rust-welded to the
>cylinders!
> >Any ideas? (besides dynamite!)
> >
>
>If it is an "&" marked crank (nitrided), maybe it would be worth just taking
>your Sawzall to it with a metal cutting blade and just slice the cylinders
>off -- or maybe you have a big band saw you could run it through.


Do NOT cut anything.


I've pulled down a number of stuck/rusted-cylinder 'Vair engines and 
I never failed to get each and every single one apart without 
breaking or cutting ANYthing.   Last one was a 140 that had been 
rained in with no carbs on it for about 9 months, came out of Richard 
Durham's Corvair parts yard in Forest VA.   The guy who acquired the 
car simply gave me the engine, thinking it was locked up via spun 
bearings.   The crank is perfect and spins nicely in the case, 4 
cylinders however are pretty rough... good for boring though.


I got that one apart by removing the piston-jug assys that I could 
get to first, which allowed me enough wiggle room to eventually pull 
a couple more penetrant-soaked cylinders far enough off the pistons 
to turn the crank just enough to reach yet another rod cap, remove 
it, repeat, etc.  Just like the last ones I dismantled.


If you exercise a little ingenuity you can get it apart without 
cutting anything.   Yes, a Craftsman 1/4" ratchet and 7/16 6-point 
socket will pop the rod nuts right off, and even a swivel-joint with 
that Craftsman name on it will be up to the task without 
breaking.   Wiggle, twist, patience with the penetrant... and don't 
forget checking out that possible egress into an open crankcase 
spigot (vacated by the previously removed cylinder) with the swivel 
to reach the elusive rod cap on that stuck piston.   You might be 
surprised how much a stuck engine might turn once you remove the 
pistons-jugs that you CAN get to easily.



Don't give up.


tony.. 


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