<VV> Overcooling (was: LM turbos and no lower shrouds)

[Eric S. Eberhard]

My definition of overcooled I forgot -- running consistently with oil 
temps under 220.  This is important in many ways because oil is 
affected by temps such that if too low it sludges and blocks oil 
passages and gums up rockers and ... which is why a car with all city 
miles where it may never get to 220 is not so good as a car with 
highway miles.  I drive 9 miles to work, leisurely, and it barely 
gets to 220 ... so I usually go the long way every so often just to 
heat it up. E

I use stock instruments which are not as accurate as one would like, 
or consistent between cars.  Change the thermister on a Spyder ... 
and it'll run 50 degrees hotter or cooler.  So I generally go for "is 
this car acting normal."  Having said that, I have often used a 
really cool instrument that is fairly exact -- it is like a pistol 
and you aim it at things and it gives you the temps.  The oil filter 
is much different than the oil pan.  Enough so that my A/C car which 
was really off, I installed an aluminum pan (better).  The person who 
taught me that trick (and owns the gauge) is an old Corvair mechanic 
in the Verde Valley.  After rebuilding my sedan he used that all over 
the place until he was happy.  To some degree consistency was more 
important than the actual numbers.  And, of course, there probably is 
a difference between oil temps at the idiot light versus the pan and 
oil filter (those two are wildly different at times), on the cooler, etc.  E

At 11:36 AM 10/25/2011, you wrote:
>Message: 2
>Date: Tue, 25 Oct 2011 14:33:02 -0400 (EDT)
>From: jvhroberts at aol.com
>Subject: Re: <VV> Overcooling (was: LM turbos and no lower shrouds)
>To: Vairtec at optonline.net, virtualvairs at corvair.org
>Message-ID: <8CE615BA9C5F774-5F0-58B92 at webmail-m098.sysops.aol.com>
>Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
>
>  Define operating temperature, and how did you measure it?
>
>This is where I get the most grief, trying to get accurate data! 
>When I was debugging the cooling on my Mazda 13B powered boat, I got 
>all kinds of 'advise' from others who tried, like, they couldn't get 
>an oil cooler that worked very well, etc.. Adding a decent 
>instrument helps a lot. I bought a Fluke two channel digital 
>thermometer and a pair of Type K thermocouples, and that answered a 
>LOT of questions. Meaning, often, factory gages aren't worth SQUAT! 
>Turned out my oil cooler setup worked fine, and a couple of guys who 
>duplicated said it never worked right AT ALL, until I lent them this 
>thing, and gee, it's amazing what you learn when you measure stuff accurately!
>
>So, I ask, how do you know it was overcooled?
>
>
>
>John Roberts


Eric S. Eberhard
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