<VV> 140 engine codes
shortle
shortle556 at earthlink.net
Fri Nov 25 20:27:43 EST 2011
And before "writing off" the original RB RM RN engine cases I would suggest checking them for wear (plastigage).
It sort of depends on what you are building. Is it a numbers matching factory stock or a racer or?
Timothy Shortle in Durango Colorado 81301
-----Original Message-----
>From: "mark at noakes.com" <mark at noakes.com>
>Sent: Nov 25, 2011 6:02 PM
>To:
>Cc: Virtual Vairs <virtualvairs at corvair.org>
>Subject: Re: <VV> 140 engine codes
>
>Bryan et. al.,
>
>Thanks for the suggestion. Obvious on second thought, but I hadn't
>thought about it in that way to this point. We certainly flogged our
>stuff back in the day. In those days we were all running modified 140s
>or 110s...even my Lakewood had a modified 102hp in it (and never had
>trouble like what the list indicates out of it at all).
>
>We mostly only saved the high performance stuff over the years...about a
>dozen engines, mostly 140s, a couple of turbos, and a few 110s...too
>many transaxles and heads to count in short order but didn't see any
>powerglide/low hp stuff. Seems strange to go buy from someone else when
>we have so much in hand.
>
>Hmmm...will have to think about that one. And I'll have to go back and
>sort through in more detail to see what my options are.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Mark N
>
>On 11/25/11 6:28 PM, Bryan Blackwell wrote:
>> You might consider using a 95 or 100 PG case instead. A 140 manual case (either flavor) will have more wear on the cam journals due to bigger valves and more 'enthusiastic' driving.
>>
>> --Bryan
>>
>> On Nov 25, 2011, at 5:49 PM, mark at noakes.com wrote:
>>
>>> Thanks for the feedback.
>>>
>>> Over Thanksgiving I was perusing the family stash of Corvair parts in
>>> the old shop (good dry storage space) thinking about what would make the
>>> best "new" engine for my 66. Both codes came up as possibles.
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>>
>>> Mark N
>>>
>>>
>
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