<VV> Smoking AFTER Overhaul

[Byron Comp]

>> In a message dated 5/18/2011 3:49:55 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time,  
>> byron.comp at yahoo.com writes:
>> 
>> Noting  that, it is smoking very badly right now, especially on the pass. 
>> side; thus  only running it for very brief periods in the narrow shop. When 
>> and for what  should I be concerned when I'm able to get it out and actually 
>> drive  it.
>> 
>> Byron,
>> Sorry to say that is exactly what you should be concerned with. No good  
>> overhaul/rebuild should ever be smoking in my opinion. 
>> 
>> Regards,
>> Bob Helt
>>


Bob, that was my thinking, as well.  So, . . . .


>> Date: Thu, 19 May 2011 00:36:58 -0500
>> From: "J R Read" <hmlinc at sbcglobal.net>
>> How long did you run it and how warm did it get?  You might be seeing 
>> nothing more than the "burn off" of oil on parts.

JR, until today it never ran more than at most 5 minutes and then shut off because of the smoke in the shop.

>> 
>> Break in - to me...
>> 
>> The first 10 minutes or so, you will see some smoke.  After 20 minutes or so 
>> it should be gone for sure.  You are varying the RPMS during that initial 
>>. time, right?
>>

Today I got it outside and ran it 3 different times, all with varying RPMs. The first time was for about 10 minutes and never over about 2,000 rpm. After a complete cool down of about 2 hours, the second time was for about 20 minutes, this time maxing out at about 2500 rpm. On this session it got hot enough to open (and close) the damper doors. It stopped smoking during that second session pretty much. Again, a complete cool down and then the third time for about another 10 minutes, again maxing out at about 2500 rpms for only a few seconds.

 
>> Somewhere in the half hour to hour range is time for the first oil and 
>> filter change.  Pay attention to what you find in the drain pan - including 
>> what comes out of the filter.
>> 
>> Next step is 2 hours and the same routine.

Tomorrow I will change the oil and filter first thing, but I'm not sure about running it for 2 hours. That would be easy enough to do if I could drive it, but would be extremely tiring and boring trying to vary the rpms enough and not just let it drift back town to idle.

Which raises my next question/problem: The RH carb won't maintain a low idle unless you physically hold down the linkage. It wants to constantly run up above 600-700 rpm. I don't think it's the idle mixture; it just wants to open the throttle up. I replaced the bent wire linkage(s) before overhaul with the screw type linkage bars and have them set like I think they should be, but to no avail. The LH one works fine. I put a heavy spring on the connecting bar where the accelerator rod hooks on, but that just twists that connecting bar across the 2 feet or so of travel and the RH one keeps opening up. Any suggestions?

BIG SNIP

>> Oh, you DID make sure that the ring gaps were NOT lined up with one another 
>> upon install, right?
>>

Since I had the work done elsewhere and only saw it again after completed and re-assembled, that's the same assumption I made. I didn't want to insult them and ask. Were it to happen now, you bet-yore-a$$ I'd ask this time. They guarantee their work, so we'll see, . . . .

 
>> I would not give it to the body shop until you are satisfied there are no 
>> engine issues.  They are going to start it, move it in - out of the shop - 
>> to a different area in the shop.... and all that (brief) time on full choke 
>> which will wash the cylinder walls in gasoline.
>>

I'll make sure and follow those instructions. They're used to just pushing it around, so I may just ask them to continue doing that.

Thanks for everybody's patience.

Byron Comp
'64 Monza Vert
Gainesville, FL