<VV> [FC] Replacing fuel tank 5/16" rubber line....and fuel gauge

[Joel McGregor]

Based on 3 things you said below we may be chasing the wrong problem.
10 year hibernation
It ran fine after replacing the pump
It vapor locks during a post shutdown heat soak.
Have you checked the accelerator pumps?  I've had vairs that sat long enough that the acc pump cups got hard.  The symptoms would be no start if you kill it hot.  When cold the chokes would make it rich enough to start but after the chokes were open it would run ok but not restart.
Could it be flooded?  That's what I've usually seen on hot soak.  The heat boils the fuel out of the carbs and you have to hold it wide open and crank for longer than normal to get it going.
I would check to see if the acc pumps are squirting immediately after killing the engine when hot and then before you try to start it after the heat soak period that normally gives you the trouble.  The first test will tell you the pumps are working and the second will tell you if the carbs have boiled out all the fuel.
Your swelled fuel line needs to be replaced but in my experience collapsing fuel lines mostly cause an out of gas symptom running down the road not a few hours after the car has run.
Are you sure the spark is good after the heat soak?
Sorry if some of these issues have already been discussed.
Joel McGregor
________________________________________
From: corvanatics-bounces at corvair.org [corvanatics-bounces at corvair.org] On Behalf Of Andrew Sego [andrew_sego at yahoo.com]
Sent: Tuesday, July 26, 2011 2:38 PM
To: corvanatics at corvair.org
Subject: Re: [FC] Replacing fuel tank 5/16" rubber line....and fuel gauge

 This is the van that came out of a 10 year hibernation.  After running the van
on it't first decent trip I discovered that the diaphragm in the fuel pump was
broken around the rod.  I replaced the pump with a working used Airtex pump that
I had on hand.  It ran fine after that.  I did not check the fuel pump pressure
or suction.  I added a fuel filter to the rubber connector above the starter
when I changed the pump.  It vaporlocks during a post shutdown heatsoak.

Looks like I need to remove the tank to replace the hose. I'm going to wait to
drop the tank before I make any decisions on changing pumps. I'm hoping that a
better rubber connection will fix it. If not, I'm torn between replacing the
used pump with a new high quality mechanical pump, a backup electric pump, or a
full time electric pump. If at all possible I'd like to keep the stay with a
mechanical, but I realize that may not be practical.  I've read thru the Tech
Guide trying to find causes and solutions for vaporlock.  Adding a return line
or drilling a vent hole in the web inside the fuel pump are a couple of
ideas.    Any others?  No clothespins and aluminum foil for me thanks.



The engine is a 65 110/4/3.27 with a 12 plate oil cooler. The cooler is clean
and has side shields and the recirculation ducts are blocked off.  The fuel
lines are well clear of the shrouds.  I still have the lower shrouds on and
thermostats are functional.  The fresh air hose on the top shroud is good...I do
not know about the heater in front of that. The perimeter seal is intact and in
place. The rear seal is not firmly attached because the PO didn't replace the
retainers with 64 style pieces when they put the LM engine and 64 car hanger in
there.  The rear seal doesn't have any large gaps in it though.  Timing is set
at 14 degrees and runs ok.  This engine in this van was installed by a local and
reputable Corvair repair shop. Considering they went to the trouble of putting a
12 plate on, I'll assume they also deflashed the heads. I'd have to check once
the shrouds are off.   I'm looking for other ideas what might be contributing
factors.


I had vaporlock problems on my first Vair, a 63 102 PG Monza coupe.  For some
reason it had a 3 plate oil cooler.  After trying many things I finally replaced
that darned thing and my problem went away for good.  My 64 Monza 95 PG
vaporlocked several times.  Deflashing the heads and cleaning out the oil cooler
cured it.   I have .020" over forged piston OT-10 cammed 64 110 engine that is
being put together now to replace this tired old 110.    I'll also be replacing
the car 3.27 with a real 64 FC 3.55 differential when the engine is out.  I'd
like this problem resolved before the new engine is in place.

Thanks for the advice guys!
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