<VV> Pulls When Braking

[Frank DuVal]

No special tool needed for control rod bushings.

Except

LARGE wrenches!

And maybe a "blue" wrench since it is an eastern car.

No springs to injure you. Sometimes you need to remove the control rod 
to get the back bushing on. Just two bolts hold it in place.

I have had several control rods snap when trying to remove the nuts.

I have put bushings on many rods that no longer had threads in the 
center area.

I bought one car (64 Spyder) that had a welded rod. Well, it had weld on 
the outside edge I could see. Drove the car home. Discovered the weld 
was surface only and that side only! Snapped easily in half when I put a 
wrench to it.

The Moog bushings (heavy duty) that were available (still are?) are 
great, and usually available at parts jobbers that supply shops like 
your Firestone.

I gave up on a particular Firestone store in Richmond, and it was just 
across the street from my shop, when the alignment "technician", while 
looking at the nice video display of under car adjustment points, 
couldn't figure out how to adjust the caster. Yes, that is the 
adjustment these bushing and nuts make. So simple a Caveman could do it, 
looking at the display. But, not this guy,,,,


Pulling- check everything in the "front end" for tightness. This can be 
very tough to cure.

Frank DuVal

On 12/10/2011 8:40 PM, Bill H. wrote:
>                                                 B"H
>
> Hi all...does anyone have any experience with their Late Corvair pulling sharply to the left or right when the brakes are applied?  After she sits for more than a few hours and you drive away and apply the brakes, the steering wheel SPINS to the left!  You fight the wheel to hold it straight, then the pull gets a little better, and sometimes it pulls a bit to the right when braking moderately to hard.
>
> When I got the car, I found out it had a bad master cylinder (the '66 master was upgraded to a dual MC by a previous owner), so I replaced it.  I did the best I could to bench bleed the new master, but took it to a local Firestone shop to do the job right.  I told them the car is pulling, and also asked for a computer 4 wheel alignment.
>
> After 2 days in the shop, I got the car back, brakes were nice and high with no "sponginess," but the pull to the left and right continues.
>
> They refused to replace the front control arm bushings that I have because thei only use "their own" parts.  I've also noticed that the sway bar bushings are also not in good shape.  I think I can do the sway bar bushings myself, but the shop manual says the control arm bushings have to be done by a special tool to press the old out and the new parts into the rod.
>
> The brief check I did on the ball joints seem ok and so do the tierod ends.  I repacked the front wheel bearings as well.  the brake linings look ok and so do the drums.
>
> Any suggestions?
>