<VV> Problems with a 140 tear down
kevin nash
wrokit at hotmail.com
Tue Aug 30 23:29:10 EDT 2011
> Message: 5
> Date: Tue, 30 Aug 2011 18:51:17 -0700
> From: "Bob Gilbert" <bgilbert at gilberts-bc.ca>
> Subject: <VV> Problems with a 140 tear down
> To: <virtualvairs at corvair.org>
> Message-ID: <018c01cc6780$794c2550$6be46ff0$@gilberts-bc.ca>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> Hi,
>
> I'm in the process of tearing down a 140 block as a pre-cursor to starting
> the 3.1 build for my UltraVan. The block and everything inside and outside
> were very, very rusty. Other than making it a tougher job to tear down , I
> didn't worry too much about the rust as most of what is rusty will be
> replaced or otherwise worked on.
>
>
>
> Until now!
>
>
>
> I've removed the heads and I am down to the bare crankcase and cylinders
> with pistons in them. The bell housing is still attached and is mounted to
> my engine stand.
>
>
>
> The problem is the crank won't move (possibly even rusted by itself) and
> the pistons are rust-welded to the cylinders! So I can't even get to the all
> of the con rod bolts off and split the case.
>
>
>
> Any ideas? (besides dynamite!)
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bob
>
Bob- I had the same problem getting a early turbo engine apart- I used 2 or 3 cans of pb blaster on it makingsure to hose down everything that could possibly be frozen, including the base of the cylinders. After each spray downsession, I lightly tapped the pistions and barrels with a hammer- the ringing from the hammer taps helps the oil seepinto the stuck parts. After a couple of weeks of spraying and banging (NEVER hitting anything hard enough to dent orchip anything) the cylinders finally un-stuck them selves from the block, and was able to remove the rods. If you trythis, remember, its the ringing of the metal that does the work, not the force of the hit!Kevin Nash
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