<VV> Problems with a 140 tear down

[J R Read]

Patience instead of dynamite.

If it's on a stand which (I assume) rotates - try putting the engine 
90degrees from normal and pull the plugs on the high side.  Put plenty of 
Marvel Mystery Oil (or your favorite concoction) into those 3.  After a week 
(maybe 2), put those plugs in and do the same on the other side.  Give it a 
couple more weeks on that side and put it level.  Pull, or at least greatly 
loosen the plugs and begin working the crank back and forth until you can 
work it to the point where it will go a full 360.  This could happen right 
away - or (more likely) take another couple of weeks with say 3 or 4 10 
minute tries each day.  Eventually, you should be able to get to all of the 
rod cap nuts.
Later, JR

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bob Gilbert" <bgilbert at gilberts-bc.ca>
To: <virtualvairs at corvair.org>
Sent: Tuesday, August 30, 2011 8:51 PM
Subject: <VV> Problems with a 140 tear down


> Hi,
>
> I'm in the process of tearing down a 140 block as a pre-cursor to starting
> the 3.1 build for my UltraVan. The block and everything inside and outside
> were very, very rusty. Other than making it a tougher job to tear down , I
> didn't worry too much about the rust as most of what is rusty will be
> replaced or otherwise worked on.
>
>
>
> Until now!
>
>
>
> I've removed the heads and I am down to the bare crankcase and cylinders
> with pistons in them. The bell housing is still attached and is mounted to
> my engine stand.
>
>
>
> The problem is the crank won't move (possibly even rusted by itself)  and
> the pistons are rust-welded to the cylinders! So I can't even get to the 
> all
> of the con rod bolts off and split the case.
>
>
>
> Any ideas? (besides dynamite!)
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bob
>
>
>
>
>
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