<VV> Fwd: Windshield Sealing/Option 3

[HallGrenn at aol.com]

In my experience with four LMs (one stripped and painted twice in twenty  
years or so) option 3 (the Fisher Body way) worked very well.  In each case  
the windshield mounting pinchweld was thoroughly cleaned, treated with a 
rust  eater (phosphoric acid if I remember correctly) painted with Rustoleum 
rusty  metal primer (fish oil based), and top coated with black Rustoleum 
before  getting its regular paint.  The two drip holes were enlarged by  
necessity--the rust was cleaned out.  In two cases I also sprayed a  phosphoric 
acid rust eater up into the underside of the area via the lower vents  (after 
brushing and vacuuming all of the dirt and crud out of the  area--especially 
on top of the lower hinge inner reinforced mount), then sprayed  the 
Rustoleum rusty metal primer up in there as best I could.
 
The standard mounting adhesive rope as provided by Clark's or a local body  
shop supplier was used and butyl caulk filled the gaps.  Back then I also  
used the sacrificial anode clips on at least one lower trim mounting post to 
 slow rust/corrosion.  By keeping the area under the stainless trim clean  
(flushing with water at least each spring and fall) the lower windshield 
areas  stayed rust free in the usual problem areas for decades.
 
Today I'd probably use POR15 instead of the Rustoleum and I don't know  if 
I would be able to find the anode mounting clips.  But  I'dd still do it the 
same way.  I don't have a garage and neither  did the owner that I sold one 
of the cars to, but all held up better than  the original job Fisher Body 
did--the same procedure, just more  care.  If only other parts of the cars 
had held up so well.......
 
Bob Hall
Group Corvair
Corvanatics
CORSA
Kensington, MD 20895