<VV> VirtualVairs Digest Bertone Testudo

Urs Tanner utgrenchen at bluewin.ch
Thu Apr 7 09:01:04 EDT 2011


I drove the Corvair Bertone Testudo in 1996 and it was really terrific.
You can read the the article about this adventure in the Corsa Communique 
September 1996.

Urs Tanner
Swiss Corvair Club

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <virtualvairs-request at corvair.org>
To: <virtualvairs at corvair.org>
Sent: Thursday, April 07, 2011 2:39 PM
Subject: VirtualVairs Digest, Vol 75, Issue 29


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> Today's Topics:
>
>   1. Re: Fuel Pum Pressure/Upholstery Work (Bryan Blackwell)
>   2. Re: Fuel pum pressure/upholstery Work (Gary Moore)
>   3. Re: Fwd: Bertone Testudo (Corvair) auction in Italy (Ulli Dittmar)
>   4. Re: VirtualVairs Digest, Vol 75, Issue 27 (Dave Leonard)
>   5. Re: Low mileage corvairs (buhog at cox.net)
>   6. winter beater (Michael Kovacs)
>   7. FW: Corvair shop manuals (Bob Dunahugh)
>   8. Re: winter beater (Matt Nall)
>   9. maybe I'm clueless... (Kinzelman, Andy)
>  10. Re: winter beater (Jeffrey B. Aronson)
>  11. Re: Looking for a small casting operation (Tony Underwood)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Wed, 6 Apr 2011 20:43:29 -0400
> From: Bryan Blackwell <bryan at skiblack.com>
> Subject: Re: <VV> Fuel Pum Pressure/Upholstery Work
> To: Greg Shaw <65vair180 at sbcglobal.net>
> Cc: virtualvairs at corvair.org
> Message-ID: <2059DAE8-6780-4E9A-A781-28D684F2294E at skiblack.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
>
> On Apr 6, 2011, at 8:26 PM, Greg Shaw wrote:
>
>>  My brother is putting an electric pump in his 66 convertible. His local 
>> FLAPS
>> has a 2.5 - 4.5 lb. pump and a 5 - 9lb. as choices. Is the lower pressure 
>> pump
>> sufficient?
>
> Yep - preferred really.
>
>> And would the 5- 9 lb. be too strong (cause flooding)?
>
> Yep.
>
> --Bryan
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Wed, 6 Apr 2011 18:16:14 -0700 (PDT)
> From: Gary Moore <tdrinkr at yahoo.com>
> Subject: Re: <VV> Fuel pum pressure/upholstery Work
> To: virtualvairs at corvair.org
> Message-ID: <528155.57654.qm at web31302.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
>
> Solid State fuel pumps are available from flaps also, no noise and low 
> pressure. Matt uses them.?GMoore
>>Message: 10
>>Date: Wed, 6 Apr 2011 17:26:07 -0700 (PDT)
>>From: Greg Shaw <65vair180 at sbcglobal.net>
>>Subject: <VV> Fuel Pum Pressure/Upholstery Work
>>To:?virtualvairs at corvair.org
>>Message-ID: <23435.22988.qm at web81803.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
>>Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii.
>
>> ?My brother is putting an electric pump in his 66 convertible. >His local 
>> FLAPS?
>>has a 2.5 - 4.5 lb. pump and a 5 - 9lb. as choices. Is the lower >pressure 
>>pump?
>>sufficient? And would the 5- 9 lb. be too strong (cause >flooding)?
>> ?Secondly, for a friend at work, does anybody know of a place >that 
>> reupholsters?
>>leather seats that is reputable in the SE Michigan area? Thanks >in 
>>advance.
>
>>Greg
>>Dearborn, MI
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 3
> Date: Wed, 6 Apr 2011 21:26:04 +0200
> From: Ulli Dittmar <info at california-camping.de>
> Subject: Re: <VV> Fwd: Bertone Testudo (Corvair) auction in Italy
> To: HallGrenn at aol.com
> Cc: virtualvairs at corvair.org, taruffi57 at aol.com
> Message-ID:
> <7BCF116A-AB9E-448F-B08C-547CDAE2D601 at california-camping.de>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
>
> sure, no problem - I will share it with my best friend Silvio Berlusconi - 
> at least shipping is affordable ;-)
>
> by the way, shipping to the West Coast should be about 2000$ and 500 less 
> to the East Coast.
>
>
> Ulli
>
> Ba-VAIR-in Corvair driver
>
> Am 06.04.2011 um 20:08 schrieb HallGrenn at aol.com:
>
>> In a message dated 4/6/2011 2:03:35 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
>> info at california-camping.de writes:
>> Hope someone has enough small change
>>
>> Regards from Germany
>> Ulli
>>
>>
>>
>> Ulli,
>>
>> We were hoping someone on your side would buy it.  Taschen Geld fur Euch.
>>
>> Bob Hall
>> Group Corvair
>> Corvanatics
>> Corsa
>> Kensington, MD 20895
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 4
> Date: Wed, 6 Apr 2011 21:10:03 -0400
> From: "Dave Leonard" <dave at arborlea.com>
> Subject: Re: <VV> VirtualVairs Digest, Vol 75, Issue 27
> To: <virtualvairs at corvair.org>
> Message-ID: <097001cbf4c0$86ae9e40$940bdac0$@com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> I love low mileage "original" cars, and have three.  My '55 MG TF-1500 
> with
> 17k on it, original paint, top and exhaust.  And a '57 IH S-120 4x4 pickup
> with only 12k on it.  My '69 Convert has a relatively low 29k on it, but
> with a repaint and engine rebuild is now no longer "original".
>
>
>
> Dave
>
>>Date: Wed, 06 Apr 2011 12:24:23 -0400
>
>>From: "peter koehler" <pkoehler01 at atlanticbb.net>
>
>>Subject: <VV> How Low (mileage) can you go?
>
>>
>
>> Anybody else out there have a better story? Low mileage doesn't
> necessarily
>
>> mean more value. Condition should dictate that, but you can't argue with 
>> a
>
>
>> low mileage starting platform for your next Corvair project. Right? -
> Caveman Pete
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 5
> Date: Wed, 6 Apr 2011 21:30:41 -0400
> From: <buhog at cox.net>
> Subject: Re: <VV> Low mileage corvairs
> To: virtualvairs at corvair.org
> Message-ID: <20110406213041.MU5UF.25641.imail at eastrmwml46>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
>
> I currently own a 63 coupe with just under 29,000 original miles. I am the 
> third owner, the second owner never drove the car. It had no brakes when 
> he bought it and it still had none when I bought it. I have a copy of the 
> original new car order from a local dealer that is still in business. Have 
> a copy of the original title and the broadcast sheet. The car had 27,881 
> miles when I bought it 3 years ago.
>
> Al Blake
> Seven Hills, Ohio
> 44131
> 63 Coupe
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 6
> Date: Wed, 6 Apr 2011 13:56:46 -0700 (PDT)
> From: Michael Kovacs <kovacsmj at sbcglobal.net>
> Subject: <VV> winter beater
> To: VV <virtualvairs at corvair.org>
> Cc: George and Karen Liebegott <liebegott69 at sktc.net>
> Message-ID: <450640.38892.qm at web82003.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> We need a new subject.
>
>  How 'bout a class for the 2012 concours/car dsplay in Mass for the 
> best/worst
> WINTER BEATER??????????? I'll offer mine up for the challenge. 1969 500
> everything works except the radio. 110 pg 174,000 miles never overhauled. 
> Starts
> instantly and stops straight, steering tight. Outstanding 4 REAL snow 
> tires of
> 185 13 size.
>
>
> MIKE KOVACS
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>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 7
> Date: Wed, 6 Apr 2011 20:56:09 -0500
> From: Bob Dunahugh <yenko108 at hotmail.com>
> Subject: <VV> FW: Corvair shop manuals
> To: Virtaul Vairs <virtualvairs at corvair.org>, corvanatics
> <corvanatics at corvair.org>
> Message-ID: <SNT124-W527C897B875D6B284A168280A40 at phx.gbl>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252"
>
>
> Richard sent me this, so I'm passing it along.  Bob Dunahugh
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> From: Richard J. Morrow [mailto:rjmcem at att.net]
> Sent: Tuesday, April 05, 2011 7:38 PM
> To: 'Bob Donahue'
> Subject: Corvair shop manuals
>
> Thank you for helping me find a new home for my Corvair shop manuals.  One 
> is a 1961 Corvair and Corvair 95 Shop Manual (S&M 34).  The other is 
> a1962-1963 Corvair and Corvair 95 Shop Manual (ST-20).   Both are in 
> excellent condition even though they are 40 years old.  I?m asking $15 
> each or $25 for both which seems fair considering what they ask at swap 
> meets.  I?d like your opinion on this.      My phone is (309) 755-1495 
> and my e-mail is rjmcem at att.net        Thanks again,  Richard Morrow 
> 418 24th Ave. Ct.  East Moline, IL 61244
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 8
> Date: Wed, 6 Apr 2011 22:37:08 -0400 (EDT)
> From: Matt Nall <patiomatt at aol.com>
> Subject: Re: <VV> winter beater
> To: virtualvairs at corvair.org
> Message-ID: <8CDC2E3D31EB04A-1430-15937 at webmail-d037.sysops.aol.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
>
>
>
>
>  How 'bout a class for the 2012 concours/car dsplay
>
> ==============================================
>
>
> Tell us the heater works great!!  ?????????????????/////
>
>
> Matt Nall
> Charleston, Oregon
> http://mysite.ncnetwork.net/reswr0kp/
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 9
> Date: Thu, 7 Apr 2011 07:09:43 -0500
> From: "Kinzelman, Andy" <akinzelm at greatnortherncorp.com>
> Subject: <VV> maybe I'm clueless...
> To: "'virtualvairs at corvair.org'" <virtualvairs at corvair.org>
> Message-ID:
> <BEB217F41729C54AA88AD040E9C32EAE112BE6135F at corp-mail2.gnc-net.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> Guys,
> Last week I helped a friend pull his drivetrain (broken spider gears). 
> Just cause I'd never done it - I disassembled the bad diff.  I counted the 
> teeth - 18 pinion & 32 ring.
>
> Can somebody explain the calculations to determine the ratio - I can't get 
> the 3.55 it's supposed to be (I seem to be off by a factor of 2 - why)?
> Thanks,
> Andy K.
> Wisconsin
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 10
> Date: Thu, 07 Apr 2011 08:25:14 -0400
> From: "Jeffrey B. Aronson" <jrh at foxislands.net>
> Subject: Re: <VV> winter beater
> To: Michael Kovacs <kovacsmj at sbcglobal.net>, VV
> <virtualvairs at corvair.org>
> Message-ID: <4D9DAD2A.1000303 at foxislands.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
>
> On 4/6/2011 4:56 PM, Michael Kovacs wrote:
>> We need a new subject.
>>
>>    How 'bout a class for the 2012 concours/car dsplay in Mass for the 
>> best/worst
>> WINTER BEATER??????????? I'll offer mine up for the challenge. 1969 500
>> everything works except the radio. 110 pg 174,000 miles never overhauled. 
>> Starts
>> instantly and stops straight, steering tight. Outstanding 4 REAL snow 
>> tires of
>> 185 13 size.
> And I hereby challenge your '68 with my '66, easily one of the
> scruffiest Corvairs on the road today! 110/4 with working AM radio,
> starts after some chuffing, stops more or less, steers in the general
> direction indicated by the steering wheel, and worked great in the snow. 
> :).
>
> Jeff Aronson
> Vinalhaven, ME 04863
> www.landroverwriter.com
>
> '66 Corvair Monza Coupe 110/4
> '66 Land Rover Series II-A 88" SW
> '80 Triumph TR-7 Spider
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 11
> Date: Thu, 07 Apr 2011 01:53:28 -0400
> From: Tony Underwood <tony.underwood at cox.net>
> Subject: Re: <VV> Looking for a small casting operation
> To: Grant Young <gyoungwolf at earthlink.net>,virtualvairs at corvair.org
> Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20110407010025.037628a0 at pop.east.cox.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed
>
> At 02:23 PM 4/5/2011, Grant Young wrote:
>>Hi. I am searching for a casting company (or someone will to try it)
>>that will do
>>small batches of metal carburetor parts, using an original part for the 
>>mold.
>>The metal type is not critical.I need a few 1953 Corvette Carter YH
>>carb choke cable
>>mounting brackets. For those not aware of what goes on the Corvette
>>parts market,
>>it is strange (and often grossly inflated) to say the least. I can
>>buy a complete core for
>>less that the parts on it (but that still leaves me short of the
>>parts). Thanks for any leads.
>>The Carbmeister
>
>
>
> Back When, while in the military, I spent a lot of spare time at the
> craft shop next door to the photo lab (spent more time in the lab but
> that's another story).  I watched a few of the guys in the craft shop
> make castings from plaster molds.   Belt buckles, amulets, rings,
> that sorta thing.
>
>
> Some of it was done from silver (mostly melted down silver coins, of
> all things) although some things like amulets and belt buckles were
> made from pot metal scrap picked out of the trash bins at the motor
> pool.   When twiddled a bit with some other metals, pot metal looks a
> lot like pewter.  And stained with certain types of oils when still
> very hot, it can take on darker hues.   Same thing with shellcase
> brass, which can look rather dynamic when stained in such a
> manner.    But I digress...
>
> The mold form was made from plain wax.   Paraffin wax (candle wax)
> bought off the local economy worked just fine for making mold
> forms.   Once the mold form was satisfactory, a plaster mold was made
> from the form.   The metal of choice was heated in a small crucible
> until melted (using a small torch) and poured into the plaster mold
> which for one shot castings was later simply broken off the
> casting.  It worked out very nicely.
>
> Ron, the shop manager, showed us how to make a 2-part mold that could
> be reused several times.   This worked out reasonably well with
> silver... pot metal may do equally well.   This did nicely for making
> belt buckles...
>
>
> If you only needed a few brackets, like 4 or 5 or thereabouts... and
> depending on how complicated the bracket actually is, you may want to
> consider casting your own from pot metal or aluminum.  A mapp gas
> torch works out nicely to melt aluminum or pot metal scraps.
>
>
> I've made wax mold forms by making a wax mold out of modeling clay
> packed around the part in question, then carefully removed (with some
> help from a misting of light spray oil like WD40).   Melted wax is
> poured into the clay mold, which is pulled apart to reveal the wax
> form that of course is used to make the plaster cast mold.   This was
> to duplicate a badge, and I used plain ordinary silver solder to cast
> the dupe after using the wax form to make the plaster cast, from
> which I cooked out the wax since it was a one-shot deal and didn't
> care about the wax form once the mold was made.   Two-part plaster
> molds need some sort of alignment pins or dowels... in one small mold
> I made, I simply used toothpicks snipped to length in one half of the
> plaster mold which was then "greased up" and the other half of the
> mold was poured on top, to allow the halves to come apart
> easily.  Afterwards, the tooth pick guide pins (this was a pretty
> small mold) kept the mold halves lined up nicely.
>
> Now, all that being said:
>
> I have also used GE RTV-11 silicone to make casting molds, although I
> used epoxy resin to form the product (after oiling the inside of the
> mold).   RTV-11 uses a catalyst to cure quickly.  Uncured, it pours
> like pancake syrup and when cured, it's like plain silicone
> rubber.   It will stand up to temps of around 700 degrees easily
> enough, which will allow silver solder casting.   It will, however,
> start to break down if it's exposed to temps much above 800 or so,
> which is around the melting point of pot metal... so, not sure how
> many times you could use an RTV-11 cast with melted pot metal.   I
> did this sorta thing with epoxy (JB-Weld) to reproduce control knobs
> for survey laser products which got broken often and were rather
> difficult to obtain, worked out nicely.   Made one from molten 60-40
> solder once just for the heluvit and it came out well.
>
> ...your own personal mileage could well vary.
>
>
>
> This might sound labor-intensive, but if you need a small batch of
> parts, it could well be cheaper to make them yourself than have to
> deal with a foundry somewhere who might only do the job if several
> hundred of the product were ordered etc.
>
>
>
> tony..
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> _______________________________________________
> This message was sent by the VirtualVairs mailing list, all copyrights are 
> the property
> of the writer, please attribute properly. For help, mail to: 
> vv-help at corvair.org
> This list sponsored by the Corvair Society of America, 
> http://www.corvair.org/
> VirtualVairs at corvair.org
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>
> End of VirtualVairs Digest, Vol 75, Issue 29
> ******************************************** 



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