<VV> Theoretical recommendations.

Charles Fregeau n5hsr at sprynet.com
Tue Sep 7 10:10:29 EDT 2010


OK, so we want to replace the valves with the newer ones, too.

Charles

-----Original Message-----
From: virtualvairs-bounces at corvair.org
[mailto:virtualvairs-bounces at corvair.org] On Behalf Of Tony Underwood
Sent: Monday, September 06, 2010 6:50 PM
To: virtualvairs at corvair.org
Subject: Re: <VV> Theoretical recommendations.

At 03:10 PM 9/6/2010, Rodney Spooner wrote:
>Is there any good way to tell an original good quality Corvair valve from
an
>inferior early one?


Yes.


>(Or were ALL of the earlies inferior?)


No.


>And if you're
>going to all the time, trouble, and money of getting heads done, wouldn't
it
>make the most sense to replace them with new, high quality valves?


Yes.   Hard stainless is available and they work ok.   I'd recommend 
bronze guides though, especially with stainless steel valves.


Early-early valves were one piece, and rather soft.   Most have 
self-terminated by now, well, the exhausts anyway.    Later on, a 
two-piece valve was chosen starting in... what... '62?   Somebody 
correct me about the date.

Bob?   (he knows this stuff)

The stem was softer steel to ride the guide better and the head 
(which was friction-welded to the stem) was a hi-temp Stellite alloy 
that wouldn't burn so easily.   Look for a joint in the stem just 
above the valve head bell area.  It's a slightly different "color" in 
the two-piece valve.    But if you're doing a head rebuild, it's not 
that expensive to go with new valves anyway.



tony..  
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