<VV> Rust-proofing a LM - long

[Dale Dewald]

At 15:06 5/30/2010 -0400, Michael Weary wrote:

>I am investing in a pristine late model and thinking of taking it to
>Ziebart or rust proofing it myself. Does anyone have anything in
>regards to doing this ? I have my own plan but want to hear some
>opinions and advice.

My question first of all: Are you doing this because you live very near the 
ocean and are subject to salt spray or you plan to drive the car year round 
in an area where salt is applied to the roads?  If you plan to keep the car 
garaged for the most part and drive it only infrequently in the rain (no 
salt) then I see no advantage to an extensive rustproofing treatment once 
you have examined the potentially rust-prone areas and have made repairs 
and/or applied protective coatings to these areas.  If you plan to drive 
the car year round in an area where road salt is applied--then good 
luck--these steps will only slow down the inevitable destruction of your car.

Accessing all of the areas mentioned below and thoroughly flushing them 
with clean water is not a bad idea at all, and will go a long way towards 
preserving the car.

>  My plan is:
>
>Remove all interior panels, pressure clean all concealed areas
>assuring all dirt and debris is out then remove any loose rust sand
>what I can and apply rust-proofing

If you remove the seats and carpeting the floors can be cleaned, sanded 
(sandblasted?) and painted for better rust protection.  Many people will 
recommend a product such as POR-15 in this application.  Removing the door 
panels will allow you to access the door bottoms.  Once the doors are 
vacuumed and thoroughly flushed, they can be treated with POR-15 or a 
wax/oily rustproofing compound.  Make sure the drain holes are open.  Of 
particular importance are the front kick panel vent assemblies.  Once these 
are removed, the critical inner structures of the lower A-pillar can be 
cleaned out (you will need an extra joint in your forearms) and 
coated.  Expect to find a mass of rotting leaves, pine needles, seeds, etc. 
This is not an easy job.

>Pressure wash down engine compartment sides, remove loose rust, sand
>area apply rust-proofing

The areas of concern in the engine compartment are:
1) The bottom 8" or so of the fenders behind the rear wheels where all of 
the dirt and debris tends to collect, traps moisture, and causes rust.
2) The battery tray and surrounding area--spilled battery acid and fumes 
cause corrosion.  Consider installing a sealed AGM battery from Optima, 
Orbital, Odyssey, etc.
3) The wheel arch pinch weld.
4) Box sections of the unit body--especially around the spring/shock mounts.

>Same with front trunk sides as with engine area

Again, the lower front fender bottoms (remove the metal covers) and the 
wheel opening pinch weld. NOTE: Do not put rustproofing near the heater 
resistor block located in the upper passenger side fender area near the 
cowl--there is potential danger of fire.  The inner fender area near the 
gas door pocket also needs attention.  A POR-15 type product might be best 
here as spilled gasoline tends to remove wax/oily and asphalt compounds.

You have not mentioned the rocker panels.  The LM rockers are galvanized 
but can still rust though.  Remove the rubber plugs in the wheels wells 
front and rear and the flap vent at the inner rear.  Raise the front of the 
car slightly, then power flush the dirt and debris out of the rockers.  You 
will be surprised what and how much debris you find.

>Scrub wheel wells pressure was remove loose rust and dirt apply rust-
>proofing
>
>Scrub bottom of vehicle pressure wash, remove loose rust and dirt
>apply rust-proofing

Also pay attention to the areas around and above the gas tank, the box 
frame sections from the front suspension back to the rocker panels and the 
rear box sections from the rocker panels past the trailing arm bracket to 
the spring perches.

What type of rustproofing compound do you intend to apply?  I would only 
consider the wax-based, oily compounds; Waxoyl, "amber rustproofing," or 
similar home-concocted penetrating flowable substances to be suitable for 
slowing down rust in enclosed panels. This is best applied when the 
surfaces are completely dry.  Let the car sit in dry conditions for a month 
or so, if possible, after washing.

Areas of the wheel wells and underbody that are exposed to kicked up debris 
from the tires would benefit from an asphalt or rubberized asphalt abrasion 
resistant undercoating. I would be careful about applying this undercoating 
over any existing surface rust, as it will often promote further rusting of 
the metal underneath.

>Next is drilling into non exposed areas, pressure wash what can be
>pressure washed remove loose rust and dirt apply rust-proofing, put
>body plugs back into drilled holes. Some areas this will happen to is
>cowl, around front and rear windows, lower body not easily accessed,
>etc.

This may be the only way to treat some of the areas you mention.  The box 
section "frame" members have a fair number of drain slots and holes for 
access.

>Any suggestions or comments. Anyone ever seen a website specifically
>for Corvairs ? Ziebart shop says they cannot find anything off hand
>but is still digging through archives

I would stay away from the specialty shops such as Ziebart, unless you 
personally know the owner of the local franchise who would agree to doing a 
"special" job on your car on the basis of time and materials.  Prepare to 
pay substantially more than the typical new car package.  Based on my own 
personal experience their typical job and warrantee is not going to be 
adequate for your purposes.  Please contact me off-list for further details.

You may be better off contacting a reputable body shop that specializes in 
auto restoration, and ask them about applying rustproofing in the critical 
areas described here.  They may not be able to offer a guarantee, but if 
they pay attention to detail and do a good job, they will likely gain a 
valuable customer and well deserved referral work.

Any car that has been adequately treated with wax/oily type rustproofing 
will drip the material for a week or more.  Have a supply of cardboard to 
cover your garage or driveway or park on gravel or on the street....

Dale Dewald
Hancock, (Upper Peninsula) MI