<VV> Overheating - Deflashing Heads

Mon Jul 26 18:08:42 EDT 2010

What is this "summer air recirc plate " you mention ?

Being in SoCal, I think this is (even more) important ?

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "BBRT" <chsadek at comcast.net>
To: "Charles Lee" <Chaz at ProperProper.com>
Sent: Monday, July 26, 2010 3:01 PM
Subject: Fw: <VV> Overheating - Deflashing Heads

>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "BBRT" <chsadek at comcast.net>
> To: "Bill H." <gojoe283 at yahoo.com>
> Sent: Monday, July 26, 2010 4:57 PM
> Subject: Re: <VV> Overheating - Deflashing Heads
>
>
>> Hi Bill, I will reply privately so everyone else will too.  Yes you can 
>> do it from the top and "probably" do a good enough job.  However, there 
>> are some places which can - each head is different in terms of flashing, 
>> be unreachable or difficult to get to properly from the top. You can buy 
>> a jobber length 1/8" drill. Here is the big caveat. Some head fins are 
>> quite a bit closer together and it seems from my experience that some are 
>> easier to get through or have wider spaces than others, so you want to 
>> get other tools. You need something like a coarse jewelers file and a 
>> smaller tooth keyhole type of saw-long enough, pointed, with relatively 
>> small teeth (you can buy these really cheap and they are fine) to poke 
>> through and easily cut flashing, and a cheap very thin long screwdriver 
>> or rod with the end ground or flattened to make like a chisel to kind of 
>> break through or knock out flashing. Now the problem with the 1/8th drill 
>> bit is 1. takes forever to get down through the fins to reach flashing 
>> and 2. easy to break them trying to maneuver it sideways or angle it IF 
>> you haven't already done the top portion with a shorter drill. Here is 
>> the other issue. You just about have to have a light form the opposite 
>> side to see "what you are missing" and where to try and break through. I 
>> don't see how you can do a good job without having such a light. You 
>> maybe able to stick a light up in the bottom shroud and it will give you 
>> enough light to see how you are doing..
>> I have always done them off the car.
>> BTW, make sure the condensor fins are not obstructing airflow or thtat 
>> anything else is. Make sure your shroud doors were all the way open. 
>> Make sure you had plenty of oil. It is used for cooling. Also, the summer 
>> air recirc plate needs to be installed so all the fan air goes down and 
>> not out into the engine comparment. Engine shroud seals should be in 
>> place to limit air coning up into engine comparment.
>>
>> Good Luck.
>>
>> Chuck S
>> BBRT
>> YS 073
>> GT3 Yenko Clone
>>
>> ----- Original Message ----- 
>> From: "Bill H." <gojoe283 at yahoo.com>
>>
>>
>> B"H
>>
>> Hi all...since I installed A/C in my Corvair it's been nothing but trials 
>> and
>> tribulations! Last week, maiden voyage past my 4 mile commute to/from 
>> work,
>> temp outside was around 95 degrees and we got stuck on the FDR Drive in 
>> NYC,
>> bumper to bumper for over an hour in the hot sun. I had to go upstate to 
>> answer
>> a traffic ticket.
>>
>> The oil temp gauge kept getting hotter and hotter, got past 260 degrees 
>> and onto
>> 340, no place to pull over.
>>
>> I shut the A/C off before that point. However, as we idled our way up the 
>> east
>> side of Manhattan, the TEMP/PRESS light came on, and I gingered the car 
>> as best
>> I could till we could pull over (there's no place to pull over until you 
>> cross
>> the George Washington bridge and get onto the New Jersey side of the 
>> border).
>> She was pinging loudly too, but as soon as we crossed the state line we 
>> stopped
>> at a rest area and I let her cool off for a few minutes, and the sun went 
>> behind
>> the clouds.
>>
>> The temp went down to around 260, we got back on the highway but now 
>> there was
>> no traffic, so she stayed just under 260, I turned the A/C back on and 
>> there was
>> no pinging, nor did the TEMP/PRESS light come back on either.
>>
>> Coming back, it was raining, hail, thunder/lightening, etc. but she ran 
>> ok. In
>> fact, the A/C was a godsend because at least the interior was cool and
>> de-humidified.
>>
>>
>> As soon as we got back into Brooklyn, hot weather and idle, idle, and 
>> idled our
>> way home. Temp went back up, TEMP/PRESS light back on, pinging, etc. even
>> though the gauge indicated 250 degrees for the oil.
>>
>> It hit me that not de-flashing my cylinder heads was a B-I-G mistake, and 
>> I
>> better do this before I take the car out again on a trip. She still runs 
>> and I
>> pray to the Al-mighty that I didn't damage her engine permanently.
>> .
>> So, does anyone have suggestions for the best (and least intrusive) way 
>> to
>> deflash the heads? I don't mind removing the top shrouds if it doesn't 
>> take all
>> day to do, and if it makes de-flashing easier. Can de-flashing be done 
>> from the
>> top of the engine instead of getting under the car.
>>
>> I've heard that a long 1/8" drill bit is the best way to go. If that's 
>> so, then
>> I assume that this size bit will fit in between the fins?
>>
>> I'd appreciate any and all suggestions and thanks...Bill Hershkowitz 69 
>> Monza
>> 110 PG
>>
>>
>>
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