<VV> Still More Re: Battery Explosion

[Bill Hubbell]

Again, I wish to point out that this battery explosion originated inside the battery, not inside the engine compartment. The battery tender had been disconnected and the car was sitting outside on the driveway for at least one hour before I tried to start the car. Therefore, the only source of hydrogen gas at that point was within the battery itself. 

It is likely that the stock vented battery caps (with attached hoses that exit downward via a hole in the rear wall of the battery box) actually increased the chances of explosion, as they allowed some hydrogen to remain in the top of the battery, whereas standard caps would have allowed it to escape.  (Hydrogen, being lighter than air, would not flow DOWN and out of the hoses unless pushed.) 

Bill Hubbell
-----Original Message-----
From: "corvairduval at cox.net" <corvairduval at cox.net>

Date: Mon, 28 Sep 2009 11:59:03 
To: <virtualvairs at corvair.org>
Subject: Re: <VV> Still More Re:  Battery Explosion


I don't get what you are trying to say to Gary.  If you mean which will
produce MORE hydrogen, then yes the battery tender will produce less than a
high current charger or the car's alternator. But, the battery tender HAS
to produce some hydrogen. So, they BOTH "generate some fumes from the
battery". Enough to ignite.

Also, if the door is open, or there is a newer stereo in the car, fiddling
with the battery connections will produce a spark, so don't do it when the
battery is just off charge. Do it after the compartment ventilates.

Frank DuVal
The "Other Frank", but also half charged



Original Message:
-----------------
From: FrankCB frankcb at aol.com
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 2009 10:18:03 -0400
To: gswiatowy at rochester.rr.com, virtualvairs at corvair.org
Subject: <VV> Still More Re:  Battery Explosion


Gary,
     A battery tender supplies the battery with a maintenance charge of
only 13.5 volts while an alternator on a running engine easily supplies
14.2 volts and even higher when cold.   Which one do you think will be more
likely to "generate some fumes from the battery".  Don't try to start the
car with the battery charger (or tender) still connected.  Disconnect it
first, leave the engine open to ventilate for a few minutes while you make
sure the battery connections are sound and only then try to start the car.
     Lead-acid batteries in good condition typically lose 10% of their
charge for every MONTH they receive no charging assuming there is NO
connective drain on the battery.  So SIX months means more than HALF the
battery's charge is gone.  If it wasn't in top-notch condition to start
with, the loss is even worse.
     As you say, it's a GREAT idea to wear safety goggles when working on
batteries.
     Frank "not always fully charged" Burkhard
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