<VV> Frank Retorts Re: Electrical Question

[Chris & Bill Strickland]

>If you're so poor that you can't afford a DMM that costs $10 on sale from Sears or any number of supply stores ...
>

... then you're as poor as me.  No good Corvair owner buys a cheap ten 
dollar meter when that same Chinese meter is on sale at Harbor Freight 
for $1.99 -- everybody needs a $2 meter in their tool or glovebox -- one 
for each car, like spare tires.

I think I even have a couple, but then I do have a Fluke 87 III  (what a 
battery tester that is! - if it doesn't come on, the batteries are dead 
- that's a joke (or two), for those of you that don't realize it ), and 
when one wants good readings on the charging system, I have an old 
analog Snap-On MT 540 (doesn't everybody need a direct reading 1200 amp 
ammeter?).  I have an 1156 bulb soldered to a couple battery clips, too 
-- a Very Useful Tool!  Someday, I may solder in a socket for that bulb 
-- naw! -- wouldn't be cheapo enough for a Caveman.

Actually, for a lot of automotive work, a regular "test light" and a 
powered test light are adequate diagnostic tools, when you know what you 
are trying to diagnois and can tell the difference between bright, 
brighter, and too bright.  Auto electrics aren't that hard, mostly they 
are either "on" or "not on", aka "off", and a lot of folks don't need no 
fancy $2 meter to tell the difference -- you just have to look -- is it 
sparky or not sparky?  (Be sure to take a flashlight when you get closed 
in the trunk, checking that mercury switch.)

Bill Strickland